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-   -   CapeTown and around......seeking restaurant advice (https://www.fodors.com/community/africa-and-the-middle-east/capetown-and-around-seeking-restaurant-advice-981877/)

ekscrunchy Jun 16th, 2013 04:20 AM

CapeTown and around......seeking restaurant advice
 
To my utter delight, I will be returning to South AFrica in early OCtober for a trip that will begin with a week in CapeTown. Looking for tips on where to eat. I already have Test Kitchen on my list!

Not too interested in "stuffy" French-style dining; innovation is good, as is fabulous seafood;
local farm-to-table, Asian influences--all good.

Last time we loved Showroom (now closed) and had a good dinner at Ginja and LQF in Winelands. Also liked Codfather in CAmps Bay, and the raffish (but perhaps now gone downhill) Panama Jacks at the Docks.

Finally, what is the best northern Indian restaurant in the city..someplace with good tandoori to satisfy the spice shunner, and enough to make me, a spice lover, happy, too.

traveller1959 Jun 16th, 2013 06:56 AM

>>>innovation is good, as is fabulous seafood; local farm-to-table, Asian influences <<<

Aubergine will meet your preferences perfectly. Had the degustation menu a couple of months ago - just excellent. Trust the sommelier for regional wine recommendations.

http://www.aubergine.co.za/

Relaxed, country-style ambiance. With a short-sleeved shirt, you will feel comfortable.

LewRood Jun 16th, 2013 08:42 AM

I agree with the recommendation on Aubergine (also very close to where you are staying). Test Kitchen has a more casual 'sister restaurant' at the same location, The Pot Luck Club & Gallery worth checking out too. Others include Bistro Bizerca, Il Leone Mastrantonio, The Greenhouse at the Cellars-Hohenort Hotel, Freres Bistro, Hemelhuijs (lunch). Asian try Haiku, Tandoori try Bukhara, seafood - try Harbour House on the ocean in Kalk Bay a seaside suburb of the city on the False Bay coast or its more central venue, Harbour House V&A Waterfront. Chef Bruce Robertson (The Showroom), now offers a unique lunch experience at The Boat House, Scarborough (reservations essential). the list really is endless....
Lew - Cape Town

Gardyloo Jun 16th, 2013 10:22 AM

I guess it can be variable, but some friends took me to the Noon Gun Tearoom, a somewhat funky family-run place at the top of Signal Hill, where we had a Cape Malay meal that was very, very good. But the food took a distant second place to the view over the city, which was nothing short of stunning beyond words. Above - way above - the Bo-Kaap district, a tourist trap it's not.

dcd Jun 17th, 2013 04:07 PM

We really enjoyed Ocean Basket in the central area last month. Nothing fancy, that's for sure. But locals galore. Very reasonably priced and very good food, IMHO. Check out the trip advisor reviews.

ekscrunchy Jun 19th, 2013 11:44 AM

Ok, so far I have Test Kitchen and Aubergine on the list. Maybe try for a lunch at The Boat House on the day we take the driving tour. And will try to convince partner to have dinner at Bukhara..we do not get great Indian food here in NYC!!

We are much more interested in the food than the setting, so please keep in mind. I will do some research on some of the other suggestions here, so thanks all who answered so far.

Mzoli's keeps coming up......but I think more for atmosphere than for the actual meat, no?

Gayle Jun 20th, 2013 06:50 AM

I really enjoyed Codfather for fresh fish and seafood.

You can read a conparative review of The Tasting Room and The Test Kitchen on my Africa blog http://wp.me/p3cJtv-rO

Have a great trip!

Elizabeth_S Jun 20th, 2013 09:31 AM

Hi eks!

I have some suggestions but would require a car ... will you have one?

ekscrunchy Jun 21st, 2013 05:35 AM

Hi Elizabeth!! Will have car (driver/guide) during the day, and can take take a taxi at night...do not mind roaming far for good food!!! LOVE following your adventures in your blogs!

Gayle: I had lunch at Codfather last time....very good!!! Thanks for the link!!


Interesting that Bruce Robertson, chef at The Showroom, which I liked last time, now offers meals in his own home, The Boathouse, mentioned by Lew, above.

Any of you been to Paternoster? I was intrigued by this article but it is from 2008..worth a drive from CapeTown for food and scenery?

http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/03/30...cing.html?_r=0

traveler318 Jun 21st, 2013 07:37 AM

Last September we ate at La Moutee and thought it was fantastic. Alas, we missed Test Kitchen, as they closed for ten days during our travels. We ate a few other places all of which were good, but this meets what you are looking for and the price was easy on the wallet for a several course tasting menu.

ekscrunchy Jun 21st, 2013 10:43 AM

Great ideas so far...I wish we had more than one week.

Will plan a day trip to Winelands.....just got a recommendation for Babel in Franchhoek,but have also heard good things about Bread & Wine, and Rust and Vrede. anyplace stand out for a lunch in the area. Last time I had a good meal at Tokara, and a medium-good meal (with great setting) at Le Petite Ferme. ?????

Elizabeth_S Jun 21st, 2013 11:24 AM

We had a good but not great meal at La Petite Ferme (in 2010)....wouldn't be my first choice. More ideas to follow later today!

Gardyloo Jun 21st, 2013 02:39 PM

<i>Any of you been to Paternoster? I was intrigued by this article but it is from 2008..worth a drive from CapeTown for food and scenery?</i>

Yes, gorgeous. October is probably too late for any flowers around West Coast National Park, but if you're headed up the west coast, it's a great byway.

We stayed a couple of nights up the road from Paternoster at a <i>wonderful</i> B&B called the Oystercatcher Lodge - http://www.oystercatcherlodge.co.za/home.html - and would return in a heartbeat.

Paternoster - http://gardyloo.us/aug24b%20016s.JPG and http://gardyloo.us/aug24b%20026s.JPG

West Coast NP - http://gardyloo.us/aug24b%20044s.JPG and http://gardyloo.us/aug24b%20066s.JPG

Sunset from the lodge - http://gardyloo.us/aug2223b%20050s.JPG

ekscrunchy Jun 22nd, 2013 04:11 AM

Gardyloo: Incredibly gorgeous photos; if I had seen these earlier, I might have been convinced to do at least one overnight! But now that all is planned, we would make the trip to Paternoster as a day trip; we have one week booked at a hotel in Capetown.

I have seen many of the "main" first-timer sights in the city on my last trip in 2007, when I stayed a week before heading to Winelands for three nights, but travel partner has never been to Africa. I have arranged a car and driver, so am trying to plan out days in and near the city.

I thought we would do a daytrip to Winelands (more to eat and view scenery than for the actual wine), daytrip to Simonstown area and Chapman's Peak Drive (closed last time when I was there) with Cape Point. Might leave out Hermanus this time, in favor of...Paternoster???
Hope to visit the handcraft market on the weekend.

Also interested in the Saturday food market at Old Biscuit FActory on Albert Road (???) More to look at local products to take home, an just see what is out there, than to shop for food, as we are staying in a hotel...comments on this market??

So, is Paternoster a place that should be on my list? This is in the early half of October..chance of seeing flowers en route, or are those further out of the city?

So many questions....I am very grateful for all the help here.

I will mention that I have booked again with the local agency, SouthernDestinations, who were responsible for my "life changing" first trip to the region a few years back. I could not be happier with the services they provided.


Trip for two of us is more or less:

Week in CapeTown (flying KLM from JFK via AMS). Mt. Nelson Hotel

4 nights Londolozi, Pioneer Camp

1 night J'burg (need restaurant ideas for one dinner; staying at The Winston in Rosebank)

3 nights Tswalu

Return from JNB via AMs to JFK, on KLM

Week of depression to realize that trip is really over!



When I write this, it seems like such a short trip, in comparison to my last visit....but it will not be the last if I have any control over these things!!!

Carlux Jun 24th, 2013 05:55 AM

In the Winelands, we love George Jardine at Jordan http://www.jordanwines.com/

Last year it was rated 3rd best in SA, and it has probably the best dessert souffle I've ever eaten.
http://cettesemaineacarlux.blogspot....jeuner-au.html

I personally wouldn't take the time to go to Paternoster but then we are usually in the Cape in high summer (December/January) and the flowers are over. It was interesting, but not unlike other ocean towns we've been to. Several of the restaurants mentioned in the article had closed when we were there several years ago.

ekscrunchy Jun 24th, 2013 09:06 AM

Carlux:Thank you for the helpful info. I had guessed that it might not be worthwhile to devote a day to Paternoster since my travel partner has not seen the more "basic" sights in the Western Cape. I am certain is is a pretty town, and probably worth taking the trip for a few night's stay.

Given that we have a week in the city, I am trying to plan out an itinerary ("make a plan") that will also allow for downtime at the hotel. So any thoughts are helpful.

Should I devote a lunch, which will consume a few hours including the drive, I think, to Mzoli's in Gugulethu? Anyone here to comment on the food (meat)??

LewRood Jun 26th, 2013 02:13 AM

A day visit to Paternoster is not recommended, too far, it would be better to overnight. Oystercatcher's Haven run by Sandy & Wayne Attril at Paternoster is an excellent and well situated bed and breakfast as mentioned. Should you wish a full-service hotel, try Abalone House, and be sure to dine on the beach at acclaimed chef Suzi Holtzhausen's restaurant 'Gaaitjie' for innovative seasonal menus of regional fare.

ekscrunchy Jul 16th, 2013 05:00 AM

One further question:

I am having difficulty finding great restaurants open on Sunday and Monday evenings.
We might make lunch our "big" meal on a Sunday in Winelands. Babel Restaurant has been recommended to me and I hear good things about Bread and Wine. Is Sunday just too jammed with visitors to make a Winelands visit a good idea on that day?

http://babylonstoren.com/food/

What other restaurants should I consider for Sunday and Monday evenings.

So far, I have the following on my "essential" list.


Pot Luck Club
La Colombe
Test Kitchen
The Greenhouse

kellyee21 Jul 16th, 2013 10:02 AM

Sunday is a great day for the winelands, you just have to make reservations in advance. I loved both Overture and Jordan, fantastic food, views and service, both of them. My partner also raves about Delaire though I havent been yet.

Sunday is difficult, but have a look at La Mouette in Sea Point. We ate there on a Sunday night this past May and really enjoyed it. It isn't in the same class as the others on your list but it is really quite good, with a very reasonably priced tasting menu. Monday you could try Aubergine or Savoy Cabbage. If you want some a bit different and wacky, have a look at Bombay Bicycle Club.

Your essential list is fabulous. I have eaten at Test Kitchen the past 2 trips and it is my favorite restaurant in the whole world. Both times we sat at the counter and I recommend that if you want to be in the middle of all the action. We also ate at the Greenhouse in May, completely different than Test Kitchen as well as more expensive but also fantastic. La Colombe we did a year ago, very classic. This year we had a lunch at their other restaurant Constantia Uitsig Restaurant. It was good, but didn't hit the wow factor. I haven't been to Pot Luck Club yet.

Enjoy your trip ! We have been the past 3 years to South Africa and end our trip with 5 or 6 days in Cape Town, mainly to enjoy the fantastic food !

Odin Jul 16th, 2013 04:24 PM

Blues Restaurant in Camps Bay is very good, at least we enjoyed a very nice meal & an amazing bottle of Pinotsge. Because the restaurant is situated upstairs, the views towards the beach were beautiful especially at sunset (& if you get a table by the windows). We also ate in the restaurant directly downstairs from the Blues but it was not nearly as good although the TA reviews were better. Too close to the road as well.

Odin Jul 16th, 2013 04:25 PM

Oops that should read Pinotage.

ekscrunchy Jul 17th, 2013 03:11 AM

Thanks to you both for the informative posts!

Kellee21: I, too, ate at Constantia Uitsig (lunch) and agree fully with your comment...beautiful space but I don't remember remember the food except that I was not wowed.

Another that has been recommended is Roundhouse in Camps Bay but food looks kind of fussy and reviews are mixed..any comments on that one?

Last time we had lunch at Codfather in Camps Bay and while it is not in the same league as the others, I am wondering if that might make good choice for Monday when others are closed (??)

kellyee21 Jul 17th, 2013 10:00 AM

We ate dinner at the Roundhouse 2 years ago and I really enjoyed that too (gosh such a good choice in Cape Town). The closest I can compare it to is Greenhouse, service really professional (flashlight escort out to the car etc), I wouldn't say stuffy but not casual relaxed like at Test Kitchen for example. Not sure about the food being fussy, I think the cuisine was also similiar to Greenhouse. My partner just left today for 3 weeks in Cape Town, maybe he will go back to Roundhouse and I can give you an update. Sorry can't help with Codfathers.

ekscrunchy Jul 17th, 2013 11:44 AM

As it turms out, we are NOT in the city on Monday night.....I misread the itinerary! So now have one less meal to think about (or to enjoy!)!

Kellyee: Please keep me posted on where he eats and thanks again for your help! Still have one night free in addition to Sunday evening. Will consider The Roundhouse..

ekscrunchy Aug 26th, 2013 06:29 AM

Kellyee21: Did your partner return with comments on any Capetown/Winelands restaurants?



Many thanks!

kellyee21 Sep 5th, 2013 01:11 AM

Hi ekscrunchy,

Sorry it took so long for me to check back. He did not eat at Roundhouse, but he did go to Pot Luck Club for the first time and really enjoyed it, he was very impressed. He didn't go to many top-rated places this time, but also said Terroir excellent. La Mouette he also liked as always.

How are your plans coming along ? We are actually in the process of moving to Johannesburg in less than 2 months, so I am already researching the dining there !

ekscrunchy Sep 5th, 2013 11:32 AM

Thanks, Kellyee! I ended up booking at Put Luck club for my first night in the city. It was difficult to winnow down what looks like an amazing array of restaurants, but here is what I selected:

POT LUCK CLUB
THE TEST KITCHEN
THE GREENHOUSE
LA COLOMBE
BABEL (Sunday lunch in Winelands)

My last night is a Sunday, so will leave that free and perhaps pay a visit to the famous Nando's.

I will report back after I return in late October. Thanks again for your help!

Elizabeth_S Sep 21st, 2013 02:16 PM

I'm so behind in getting names for you! We stayed in Simons Town for 4 weeks in 2010....so things might have changed but we enjoyed the following:

- couldn't get into La Colombe, but we ate at their other restaurant (River Cafe) and it was lovely
- in Simon's Town we ate often at the Boulder's Beach Club (the one right by the penguins.....we often had breakfast there because we were staying a few blocks away and breakfast was delicious and cheap)
- Bertha's in the Harbour (although the reviews aren't looking too good now) We had a couple of quite delicious dinners there (the seafood platter, which we never order but it was great) and it became "our" bar
-Olympia Cafe - Kalk Bar .... it was the real "it" restaurant when we were there (although based based on decor!)

Have a great trip!

Best

Liz

ekscrunchy Sep 30th, 2013 10:48 AM

Liz thanks so much for your suggestions! I always enjoy your food comments and photos.

QUESTION:

We are staying at the Mt Nelson. We will not have our own car, but will have the services of a driver during the day for touring.

I'vve just looked at my restaurant list for dinners and realized that two of the venues are a bit of a distance from the hotel--La Colombe and The Greenhouse. Both in or near Constantia.

SO: How much will a taxi cost from the hotel and if it is as astronomical as I fear, are there any other reliable ways of getting to and from these two restaurants in the evening?

Elizabeth_S Oct 1st, 2013 06:56 AM

This taxi fare calculator estimates it at about $20USD one way to La Colombe - maybe confirm that with their reservation people?

http://www.numbeo.com/taxi-fare/city...city=Cape+Town

kellyee21 Oct 1st, 2013 10:16 AM

Constantia isn't too far. We have always driven ourselves but my partner said it would be 200-300ZAR one way. Since you have a driver you could try and ask if he would be willing to do it for a bit extra. Rental car or taxi would be the only possibilities.

ekscrunchy Oct 12th, 2013 07:27 AM

Just reporting back to answer my own questions: Taxi fare from our hotel in CapeTown to La Colombe was R260. Taxi fare from our hotel, Mt Nelson, to both The Test Kitchen and The Pot Luck Club, both located in the Biscuit Mill in Woodstock, was about R80.

Elizabeth_S Oct 12th, 2013 08:43 AM

And the food...............??? :)

ekscrunchy Oct 15th, 2013 02:52 AM

Eliz...now at Londolozi and cannot bear to tear myself away from all of this to write much. That said, Test Kitchen and La Colombe both outstanding..if one had to choose only one of those, I would give the edge to TTK.

Will provide details as time permits!

barefootbeach Oct 19th, 2013 05:27 PM

So glad you asked this question and I"ve copied all the responses to guide our April trip here. Can't wait to hear more based on your experiences. Hope you're having great viewing at Londolozi!

ekscrunchy Oct 20th, 2013 01:01 AM

Londolozi was probably the richest game viewing and the best safari experince I have ever had...multiple cheetah, leopard, lion--all with cubs--honey badger, rhino, and on and on.

Now at Tswalu..just returned from quality time with meerkats, including four youngsters...will attempt full report upon return home..very sad to think of that right now...

343barbara Oct 21st, 2013 08:46 PM

We just spent an amazing 3 weeks in S. Africa. Had some great meals: Aubergine, Codfather, and a place with more S. African inspired food called Emily's. If you go to wine country, we had a lovely and tasty lunch at Graff-Delaire. Amazing vista while you dine on very well prepared food delights. Have fun!

ekscrunchy Oct 22nd, 2013 12:29 AM

Thanks..we, too, had a lovely lunch at Graff near Stellenbosch...

Now that trip is almost over, I would grant top honors to Test Kitchen with La Colombe following a close second. Sorry I did not have a chance to return to Codfather..we were so tired on our last CT evening that we carried out Nando chicken..

Will do a report once I recover at home..

barefootbeach Nov 25th, 2013 01:56 PM

Hi ekscrunchy, Hope you've recovered because I need your advice.
It'll be our first time in CapeTown mid-April 2014 and I've booked Four Rosmead, which is supposed to be a very nice B&B in the Oranjezicht (sp?) neighborhood....now I'm wondering if it would be better to be on the Waterfront at Cape Grace? I originally thought it would be nicer to be away from the crowds, but now I'm second guessing myself. We'll be there 4 nights, with one provided day tour to the Cape, one night at Steenberg Hotel, where we'll eat at La Colombe to celebrate my birthday, and another 2 nights in Franschoek. I've also booked Test Kitchen based on your review.
Just would like your thoughts on which area would be more atmospheric and convenient to stay at. Thanks much!

ekscrunchy Nov 26th, 2013 03:04 AM

Hi! I stayed in that general area last time. (Kensington Place). It is very pretty. As I understand you, you have four nights in Cape Town. You will be pretty busy running around to see Robben Island (make sure to get advance tickets), Table Mountain, Botanical Gardens, District 6 and (maybe) Gold Museums, plus meandering along Long Street, Greenmarket Square, etc. My point here is that while you will certainly have time to spend a morning at V&A, I think your days will be so filled that you are not going to have enough down time to lament the fact that you are not close to the Waterfront.

Although the V&A is interesting for an hour or two, its core is really is a large commercial space with highpoints (for me) being the Nobel Prize winner statues, the views, the food stalls in separate building, the bookstore, and (for some) the Woolworth's supermarket. Unless I am forgetting something, you can cover all those in a couple of hours at most. If you have a desperate need to return there, it is easy enough to get there from your hotel in a taxi.

So those are my thoughts….

I just read that there is a new contemporary art museum planned for the Waterfront. THAT will make it more of a destination, but it will not be complete for a few years…

I have other restaurant reports on my Trip Report thread which I am plodding through now..

I hope that helps..if not, please ask away..I am happy to try to help!


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