Quito

A word on terminology: Quiteños don't use the Old City/New City designations coined by the English-speaking tourism industry. The colonial heart of the city is the Centro or Centro Histórico. To the north lies an amorphous sprawl of modern neighborhoods, most notably comfortable Bellavista and La Floresta, and the bustling La Mariscal.

Another word on maps: Quito's north-south elongation makes it a difficult fit for maps, most of which rotate the orientation 90-degrees clockwise. North usually lies to the right of the page on city maps.

Quito has two parallel systems of address numbering. The official scheme employs small green-and-white signs affixed to every building using directions denoted N, S, E, and Oe (for oeste, or west) and followed by a number to denote distance from the city center. Locations in the outer reaches of the city always express their addresses this way; in the center of the city, people stubbornly stick with the old sequential numbering system.

To help you navigate all this, the phenomenal Quito Turismo, a joint venture between the city government and its police, operates several tourist offices or stands in the city, and offers guided walking tours of the Old City. The Ministry of Tourism's iTur office sits in an out-of-the-way location and has little but a few maps and brochures. A private membership organization of note is South American Explorers, with an amazing selection of information about Ecuador (as well as branch clubhouses in Lima and Cusco, Peru, and Buenos Aires, Argentina).

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  • 1. Plaza de la Independencia

    Locals always refer to the city's main square, shaded by palms and pines, as the Plaza Grande. The portico gracing the plaza's northern end, once the archbishop's palace, now holds a variety of stores and businesses, including several souvenir and sweets shops. The main branch of Quito Turismo, the city's top-notch tourist office, flanks the east side of the plaza. The white, 19th-century neoclassical Palacio de Carondelet—sometimes referred to as Palacio de Gobierno (Government Palace)—occupies the west side. Admission is free and worth it for the views of the plaza alone; you'll need to bring your passport or a copy of it to get a timed entry ticket from the booth on the lefthand side. You'll then join a 30-minute group tour at the appointed time, and your guide will hold on to your passport until the end of the tour. Tours are in Spanish but some of the friendly guides speak English, too.

    St. and Chile St.,, Quito, Pichincha, Ecuador
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