Fodor's Expert Review El Boliche Cebicheria

This tiny restaurant on a quiet, flower-filled street of one-story houses in the San Diego section of the historic town serves up impeccably fresh, creative ceviche and other seafood dishes. With six or seven basic tables—and the kitchen just behind them all—space is at a premium, but the food is worth the squeeze. Empanadas are stuffed with crab, coconut milk, lemongrass, and chimichurri; the cebiche coco comes with squid, shrimp, and conch, along with coconut milk, cilantro, and sweet peppers. Fried plantain chips are a perfect accompaniment, and cocktails are available. You have to love a place where, during a late lunch, the owner's child may be playing underfoot. Reservations are recommended for dinner.