62 Best Sights in Salvador and the Bahia Coast, Brazil

Recognized as one of the richest examples of baroque architecture in Brazil, this 17th-century masterpiece is a must-visit. The masonry facade is made of Portuguese sandstone, brought as ballast in shipping boats; the 16th-century tiles in the sacristy came from Macau. Inside, the engravings on the altars show the evolution of architectural styles in Bahia. Hints of Asia permeate the decoration, such as the facial features and clothing of the figures in the transept altars and the intricate ivory-and-tortoise shell inlay from Goa on the Japiassu family altar, third on the right as you enter (it is attributed to a Jesuit monk from China). The altars and ceiling are layered with gold—about 10 grams per square meter.

One of the most impressive churches in Salvador, the Church of St. Francis was built in the 18th century on the site of an earlier church that was burned down during the Dutch invasion in the early 1600s. The ceiling was painted in 1774 by José Joaquim da Rocha, who founded Brazil's first art school. The ornate cedar-and-rosewood interior is covered with images of mermaids and other fanciful creatures bathed in gold leaf. Guides say that there's as much as a ton of gold here, but restoration experts maintain there's much less. At the end of Sunday morning Mass, which begins at 8 am, the lights are switched off so you can catch the wondrous subtlety of the gold leaf under natural light. Mass is held Tuesday through Saturday beginning at 7:15 am.

When Italian-Brazilian modernist architect Lina do Bardi set about transforming this 17th-century private fazenda overlooking the sea, she created one of the world's most picturesque modern art museums. Original white and blue Portuguese tiles lead up to the former casarão (mansion), which houses a permanent modernist/contemporary collection, while the former chapel plays host to a rotating schedule of individual shows. Walk through the sculpture garden, with works from artists like Bel Borba and Mario Cravo, before taking a break in the atmospheric basement restaurant, a magic spot for watching the sunset. JAM no MAM, the Saturday evening alfresco jazz shows that kick off at 6 pm, are something not to miss.

One of the best scuba-diving spots in Brazil, Marinho de Abrolhos marine reserve, 856 km (532 miles) south of Salvador, was created to protect these remote gigantic coral reefs teeming with marine wildlife. Charles Darwin's expedition made a stop here in 1832, and noted the abundant bird, whale, turtle, and fish populations. The archipelago, 36 km (23 miles) off the coast of southern Bahia, is made up of five islands, four of which are within the park. Ilha Santa Barbara is a naval base with a lighthouse run by the Brazilian Navy. The shallow waters on the continental shelf are the Abrolhos Banks, containing one of the major coral formations in the Atlantic. Water visibility for scuba diving is best from December to March, while whale-watching season runs July to November. Only accredited boats are allowed inside the park, so look to hire a catamaran from one of the agencies in Caravelas. Excursions normally last 1–3 days.

A river runs down to the ocean at this long, wide, pristine beach lined with coconut palms, where the beachfront snack bars provide the perfect turf for watching the surfers and kitesurfers, although swimmers should be wary of strong tides. The Santa Maria/Catuense bus company operates six buses here daily. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); toilets. Best for: surfing; walking.

One of the most popular hikes in the national park leads to the country's tallest waterfall, 1,312-foot Cachoeira da Fumaça (Smoke Waterfall). Most of the falling water evaporates before reaching the ground, hence the odd name. A 6-kilometer (3-mile) path from the village of Caeté-Açú takes you to the canyon's rim, where you can marvel at the smoke rising from above. Visiting the waterfall from Lençóis takes the best part of the day and should be done with a guide.

Restored in 2014 after a R$900,000 investment, this small museum located inside the Sisterhood of Good Death's headquarters displays photos and ceremonial dresses worn during their rituals and festivals. You can also meet some of the elderly, energetic women whose ancestors protested slavery. The best time of year to visit is in August, during the monthlong festival that celebrates Bahia's black heritage.

Cross over the rustic wooden bridge to the small town of São Félix set across the water to pay a visit to Centro Cultural Dannemann. This cultural center is housed in a stunning colonial building that acts as both a working vintage-cigar factory and a contemporary-art space.

With an interior glittering in gold, the church here is considered one of the country's most impressive. Along with intricately carved woodwork, the convento has an impressive series of 37 white-and-blue tiled panels lining the walls of the cloister that tell the tale of the birth and life of St. Francis of Assisi. It is worth attending Sunday morning Mass for the atmosphere alone.

For a few centavos, ascend 236 feet in about a minute in the world's first urban elevator, which runs between Praça Visconde de Cayrú in the Lower City and the Paço Municipal in the Upper City. Built in 1872, the elevator originally ran on hydraulics. It was electrified when it was restored in the 1930s. Bahians joke that the elevator is the only way to "go up" in life. Watch out for pickpockets when the elevator's crowded.

A visit to this all-encompassing daily market, the largest in the state, is a headfirst dive into Bahian culture. Dress down and wander labyrinthine alleys of exotic fruits, squawking chickens, dried flamingo pink prawns, and household goods crafted from palha (straw), before heading into the covered section, where you will find an entire lane dedicated to accessories for Candomblé practices. Join early-morning vendors for a break at the barracas that line the edges and try the local speciality of passarinha (fried cow spleen), if you dare, although a cold beer is probably the safer option.

While this fort set at the end of Rua Direita de Santo Antonio may not win prizes for its architecture, its real draw is as a center for capoeira, a type of martial art practiced in Brazil. Classes led by different capoeria masters take place in the former cells, each with an individiual schedule, and begin every day at 6 pm.

A symbol of Salvador, St. Anthony's Fort has stood guard over Salvador since its construction in 1534, and is recognized as Brazil's oldest military structure. The lighthouse atop the fort wasn't built until 1696, after many a ship wrecked on the coral reefs around the Baía de Todos os Santos entrance. Inside, the small Museu Náutico has permanent exhibitions of old maps, navigational equipment, artillery, model vessels, and remnants of shipwrecks found by archaeologists off the Bahian coast. Go in the late afternoon to climb the 22-meter tower before watching the impressive sunset with the crowds who gather on the bank below. Across the road, don't miss stopping by Dinha's barraca for acarajé; her version of the typical Bahian speciality is rumored to be the best in town.

This colonial mansion set on the Pelourinho provides a glimpse into the life, work, and inspiration of Bahia's best beloved writer, Jorge Amado. A nice coffee shop provides great viewing over the square. This house is conveniently located, but those looking to delve deeper should make the trip to Rio Vermelho's recently opened Casa de Jorge Amado.

At this gallery dedicated to the works of renowned French photographer Pierre Verger you can catch a rotating selection of his captivating black-and-white shots of Afro-Brazilian culture from the 1950s–'70s, detailing both daily and religious rituals. A much larger archive is accessible at the foundation, which also hosts workshops and classes and is located on the outskirts of Salvador.

With palm trees and calm waters banked by a reef, this is the nicest beach of them all, preferable to the bustle of Praia do Forte's main beach, even though it's lined with condos. The bus to Barra do Jacuípe continues on to Guarajuba, which has snack kiosks, fishing boats, surfing, dune buggies, and a playground. Amenities: food and drink; parking (fee); toilets. Best for:sunrise; swimming; walking.

A steep 6-km (4-mile) cobblestone road connects the BA 142 highway with the village of Igatú, a former boomtown of the 19th century where the faded ruins of abandoned mansions surround contemporary pastel cottages. The open-air museum Galeria Arte e Memoria celebrates the life and customs of the garimperos, combining former stone houses with a sculpture garden and café, while at the Mina Brejo-Veruga, you can venture into what was once the area's largest diamond mine. For those looking for an alternative to hiking, this provides an interesting half-day experience into the history of the region and can be done alone or as part of a tour.

This gilded baroque splendor from 1702 rivals the interior of Salvador's São Francisco; watch, too, for the white and blue Portuguese tiles and sculptures of Christ, dripping in cow's blood and imported from Macau.

Built by and for slaves between 1704 and 1796, the Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos has finally won acclaim outside the local Afro-Brazilian community. After extensive renovation, it's worth a look at the side altars to see statues of the church's few black saints. African rhythms pervade the services and the Sunday Mass is one not to miss.

Set atop a hill as the Itapagibe Peninsula extends into the bay, Salvador's iconic Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bomfim is well worth the 8-km (5-mile) detour from the Centro Histórico and marks a crossroads between the Christian and native African religions. Its patron saint, Oxalá, is the father of all the gods and goddesses in the Candomblé mythology. Built in the 1750s, the church has many ex-votos (votive offerings) of wax, wooden, and plaster replicas of body parts, left by those praying for miraculous cures. Outside the church, street vendors sell a bizarre mixture of figurines, from St. George and the Dragon to devils and warriors. The morning Mass on the first Friday of the month draws a huge congregation, most wearing white, with practitioners of Candomblé on one side and Catholics on the other.