Fodor's Expert Review Carioca da Gema

A favorite among local sambistas (samba musicians) and a great spot to listen to live samba in a comfortable environment, Carioca da Gema is one of Lapa's liveliest spots, with talented musicians performing seven nights a week. By 11 pm, finding a place to stand can be difficult, but regulars still find a way to samba. Call ahead and book a table if you're more keen to be a spectator. There's a good pizzeria downstairs.

On paying your entrance fee, you're given a white paper card where all food and drinks are noted and your bill's paid at the cashier at the end of the night. Don't lose it, it's your ticket out at the end of the night!