Rio de Janeiro

It's sometimes said that cariocas would rather expend their energy on the beach and that nighttime is strictly for recharging their batteries and de-sanding their swimsuits, but witnessing the masses swarming into Lapa at 10 pm on a Friday night make this a tricky argument to endorse. New nightclubs and bars continue to sprout up with remarkable regularity, and there are cutting-edge underground rhythms and musical styles competing with samba, chorro, and Brazilian pop (MPB) for the locals' hearts.

A much-loved local pastime is drinking a well-chilled chopp (draft beer) and enjoying the lively atmosphere of a genuine Rio botequim (bar). Every neighborhood has its share of upmarket options (branches of Belmonte and Devassa are dotted around town), but no less enjoyable are the huge number of hole-in-the-wall spots offering ice-cold bottles of cerveja (beer) and the chance to chat with down-to-earth regulars.

Live music is nighttime Rio's raison d'être, with street corners regularly playing host to impromptu renditions. During Carnival the entire city can feel like one giant playground. The electronic-music scene is also very much alive, and the underground popularity of funk (the city's own X-rated genre, not to be confused with the James Brown version) is slowly seeping into the mainstream, down from the huge bailes or open-air parties held weekly in the city's favelas. In addition to samba and MPB, hip-hop, electronica, and rock can be heard in clubs around the city.

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  • 1. Assis Garrafaria

    Cosme Velho

    Just a few minutes’ stroll from the station for the funicular railway that whisks tourists up to the Christ statue, this welcoming bar prides itself on its enormous selection of quality beers. In a building once occupied by the late fiction writer Machado do Assis—a giant of Brazilian literature—the walls of the lounge are occupied by well-stocked bookshelves. Staff are hugely knowledgeable about drink pairings and beer, and can help you choose from the list of almost 200 bottles, which includes many imported Belgian beers. There's now a branch in Copacabana, but the original impresses with its literary heritage.

    Rua Cosme Velho 174, Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, 22241-090, Brazil
    21-2205--3598
  • 2. Cobal do Humaitá

    Humaitá

    Occupying a vast outdoor space under the gaze of Christ the Redeemer, this collection of bars, restaurant, and shops throngs with people after dark, when the air is filled with the tipsy chatter of locals relaxing over dinner and drinks.

    Rua Voluntarios Da Patria 446, Rio de Janeiro, Rio de Janeiro, 22270–010, Brazil
    No phone
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