Fodor's Expert Review Volver

A giant king crab sign beckons you into this red-tin-walled restaurant, where the maritime bric-a-brac hanging from the ceiling can be a little distracting. The name means "return," and it succeeds in getting repeat visits on the strength of its seafood; the culinary highlight is the centolla, which comes served with a choice of five different sauces. Newspapers from the 1930s line the walls in this century-old home, and the service is friendly and relaxed.