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Preparing for a night out in Buenos Aires has an element of marathon training to it. Rest up with a siesta, fortify yourself with some protein, and drink plenty of fluids before, during, and after. That’s right, the key to porteño nightlife is longevity—after all, an early night means hailing a cab at 6 am.
The scene here rivals that of any capital city, so you’ll find something to suit every taste. Trendy cocktail bars, secret speakeasies, classic tango haunts, artsy watering holes, and packed dance floors await. To make the most of them, try following the locals’ lead.
Painting Buenos Aires red means looking sharp, going with the flow as you bar-hop, and not challenging your new B.A. buddies to raucous drinking games. Porteños adore going out with their friends, but it’s not uncommon to see a large group sharing a liter bottle of beer and swigging from the same glass. Latino lightweights? Not at all. This is just how Argentines roll—and once a night gets really rocking, they'll move onto their favorite tipple, Fernet y Cola.
Hours are relaxed, but there are general guidelines. The smartest bars kick off an evening with happy hours that begin around 8 pm and often stretch way beyond 60 minutes; downtown drinking establishments start even earlier to lure workers to part with hard-earned pesos, spawning the "after-office" across the city, which is now a nightlife fixture almost any day of the week. Theater performances begin around 9 pm and the last movie begins after midnight. By that point, lines to get into popular bars have started forming, but clubs aren’t buzzing until 4 am. If in doubt, turn up later than you consider reasonable when you’re meeting a local (30 minutes after the appointed time is the norm). The subte (subway) closes between 10 and 11 pm, depending on the line and day. Monday through Saturday it reopens at 5 am; on Sunday, however, trains don’t start running again until 8 am. So taking a cab to and from home is a good idea—it’s also quicker than waiting for a colectivo bus very late at night.
No expense has been spared at the polo-themed Pony Line, a cool watering hole in the Four Seasons hotel. Creative cocktails, its own line of craft beer, luxury bar snacks, and great tunes have made this a go-to spot for sassy ladies, suave gentlemen, and models.
A sports bar rather incongruously housed in a beautiful French mansion, Casa Bar lures in year-abroad students keen for an NFL or European soccer fix, plus an older foreign crew eager to get some spicy chicken wing action. If balls aren't your bag, perch at the bar for a drink well made with imported liquor.
An older, artsy crowd gathers here for live jazz complemented by dinner, drinks, and a dash of philosophy. Musicians make good use of the vintage venue’s grand piano, while singers offer their take on the bossa nova, tango, and bolero. Bibliophiles will appreciate the on-site bookshop that stocks great Argentine literature.
If Carrie Bradshaw lived in Buenos Aires, she'd probably frequent this first-floor hot spot where local business sharks and chic internationals sip cocktails and eat sushi by candlelight. It's extremely popular during happy hour, but people stick around for dinner and the occasional live jazz shows, too. The wine list and appetizers are superb, as is the flirting.
One of the city's most stunning bars is spread across three floors of a perfectly restored French-style mansion. A cool vibe and cooler drinks (try the frozen basil daiquiri) keep this place packed on weekends. When the back garden fills on balmy summer nights, squeeze onto the marble steps with the beautiful people.
A jazz bar, restaurant, and record shop rolled into one, Notorious often hosts top musicians. You can also listen to the club's extensive music collection on the CD players at each table.
From the outside, the signs asking patrons–a mix of expats and fun-loving porteños–to leave quietly are the only hint that this isn't the demure bar it appears to be. The generous drinks promotions (ladies drink free until midnight on Friday) add substantial rowdiness, and it turns into a raucous party zone on weekends. A sports bar at heart, El Alamo also hosts bikini competitions—just so you know.
Owned by an Irish father-and-son duo, this vibrant downstairs nightspot is popular with expats and young upwardly mobile porteño party people. Stop first for a pint at the ground floor Shamrock pub, where you can yap away in English and easily forget you’re in South America; then, following the techno beats, descend to the dance club where Argentina’s finest DJs burn up the decks.
This intimate wine store and bar stocks an array of vintages carefully curated by sommelier and owner Juan Casarsa. Drop in for a bottle of Criolla, a light red, to take home or let Juan and his team serve you a glass of what’s open, and stay for some tasty snacks that go beyond charcuterie. There's also a second branch in Mercado de Belgrano indoor food market on calle Juramento.
Half a block from the very cruisey section of Santa Fe, between avenidas Callao and Coronel Díaz, Zoom offers a lounge bar, a maze, video cabins, and plenty of dark corners. It can get pretty intense, but there's good security.
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