Fodor's Expert Review Glass Onion

Visitors to small, unpretentious Goldendale will be surprised to find one of the culinary gems of the Columbia Gorge in the center of town, set within a cozy, beautifully restored house hung with local artwork. Chef Matt McGowan sources seasonal ingredients from local farms and purveyors, serves a great selection of local beers and wines, and keeps the price of everything on his menu at least $10 below what you'd pay in Hood River or Portland. Recent dishes from the regularly changing menu have included charcoal-grilled pork tenderloin with tomato jam and whole-grain mustard, and crispy Korean chicken wings with sweet-and-sour sauce and sesame seeds; brick-oven pizzas are a more recent addition to the menu. Chocolate pot de crème with fresh blueberries and cream makes for a perfect ending.