Fodor's Expert Review Xi'an Noodles

Diners here sometimes find their meal interrupted by the soft thumping noise for which the chewy, ropy noodles the restaurant specializes in are named. Biang biang noodles are made by slapping strands of dough against the hard counter, which elongates them without toughening the dough. The wide strands come in a number of dishes, along with other preparations from the eponymous city. Like most restaurants serving the food of China’s Shaanxi province, Xi’an uses a heavy hand with spices such as cumin, Sichuan peppercorn, and, in some dishes, hot peppers. But the flatbreads, salads, and soups at this sparsely decorated, casual spot all come in a variety of flavors, many mild.