Fodor's Expert Review Driskill Grill

Dominated by shiny, dark paneling and etched glass, this would-be cattle baron's club inside the Driskill Hotel recalls the palatial restaurants of the 19th century (on a more intimate scale)—until you look at the menu. Executive Chef Troy Knapp takes tasteful liberties with the meat-and-potatoes format by integrating world-cuisine influences in seasonal menus that change daily. Signature entrées include a cornbread-stuffed Bandera quail, an expertly prepared prime filet, and tender Dijon-crusted lamb chops. Try the chef’s signature five-course menu ($69). Portions can be modest, but the flavors are richly decadent.