Fodor's Expert Review La Peg

Peter Woolsey, whose tenured Bella Vista bistro, La Minette, is beloved by Francophiles, bet big on an out-of-the-way Penn’s Landing sequel named for his wife, Peggy. Housed in a former water pumping station, the digs are catnip for engineering and architecture nerds; rivet-studded I-beams crisscross the ceiling like a catwalk, and soaring arched windows overlook the brontosaurus hoof—like supports of the Ben Franklin Bridge. The menu hits a wide swath of comfort-food notes—New England clam chowder, pot roast, chicken and dumplings—with occasional Gallic flourishes. A spacious outdoor courtyard with a bar is in use for most of the year. The restaurant shares an address with the headquarters and main performance space of the FringeArts organization.