Fodor's Expert Review The Admiral

Don't be put off by the dowdy cinder-block exterior or the louche neighborhood. Inside this dimly lit, little restaurant that feels like a dive bar you'll find some of the most creative cooking in town, with a dinner menu of small and large plates that changes daily. Expect dishes such as elk loin with root vegetable hash or grilled salmon with pumpkin risotto. Advance reservations are a must.