Fodor's Expert Review Varenichnaya

The menu at this unassuming restaurant just off the boardwalk is chock-full of must-haves, starting with the standout vareniki—Ukranian-style dumplings filled with meat, cheese, cabbage, or potatoes and topped with caramelized onions—and the pelmeni, savory, tortellini-like meat dumplings. The deliciously balanced borscht has a deep, rich flavor that’s not too sweet. Finish your meal with a glass of kampot, a nonalcoholic fruit drink that's made by boiling fresh fruit in lots water.