A Québec City Cheese Primer

It used to be that all good cheese in Québec City was imported from France—not anymore. During the last several decades there's been an impressive and still-growing cheese movement in La Belle Province. Regional cheese makers long produced award-winning aged cheddar, but that's been joined by a wealth of specialty cheeses, including lait cru (unpasteurized) cheeses that you'll want to sample before going home. There are more than 400 original varieties made here.

Luckily, there are enough cheese shops to keep you cheese shop–hopping all afternoon.

Aux Petits Délices. In the market at Les Halles du Petit Quartier, Aux Petits Délices has a large selection of specialty cheeses, along with crackers, charcuterie, and condiments for a picnic on the Plains. Knowledgeable staff can help with selection. 1191 av. Cartier, Montcalm, Québec City, Québec, G1R 2S9. 418/522–5154.

Épicerie Européenne. Stop by the Épicerie Européenne in the St-Jean-Baptiste quarter, and let the knowledgeable consultants help you choose from their excellent selection of cheeses. 560, rue St-Jean, St-Jean-Baptiste, Québec City, Québec, G1R 1P6. 418/529–4847.

Épicerie J.A. Moisan. This is the oldest continuously operating grocery store in Québec City, stocked with a great selection of charcuterie, cheese, fruit and vegetables, local beers, specialty sodas, spices, and much more. 699 rue St-Jean, St-Jean-Baptiste, Québec City, Québec, G1R 1P7. 418/522–0685.

Some good cheeses to watch out for at local shops include Bleu Bénédictin from St-Benoît Abbey, Île aux-Grues four-year-old cheddar, Le Migneron de Charlevoix, and Le Louis d’Or, made in Central Québec. There's also a chèvre noire, a raw, goat "cheddar" by Fromagerie Tournevent—wrapped in black wax—that's not to be missed. If Gouda is your thing, try a piece from Fromagerie Bergeron.