Toronto Maple Leafs. Hockey is as popular as you've heard here, and Maple Leafs fans are particularly ardent. Even though the Leafs haven't won a Stanley Cup since 1967, they continue to inspire fierce devotion in Torontonians. If you want a chance to cheer them on, you'll have to get on the puck. Buy tickets at least a few months in advance or risk the game's being sold out. No matter the stats, Leafs tickets are notoriously the toughest to score in the National Hockey League. The regular hockey season is October–mid-April. Air Canada Centre, 40 Bay St., at Gardiner Expwy., Harbourfront, Toronto, ON, M5J 2X2. 855/465–3237 Ticketmaster. Union.

Toronto Marlies. If you're keen to see some hockey while you're in town, go to a Toronto Marlies game at Ricoh Coliseum. The level of play is very high, and tickets are cheaper and easier to come by than those of the Marlies' NHL affiliate, the Toronto Maple Leafs. Ricoh Coliseum, 100 Princes Blvd., Harbourfront, Toronto, ON, M6K 3C3. 416/263–3900. Union, then 509 Harbourfront streetcar west; or Bathurst, then 511 streetcar.