Fodor's Expert Review Q at The Empress

Candlelight dances beneath a carved mahogany ceiling at the Fairmont Empress hotel's flagship restaurant, where one of the two gracious rooms has expansive harbor views. The classically influenced Pacific Northwest menu changes seasonally but might feature such appetizers as Angus beef tartare or caramelized scallops and pork. Mains, featuring sustainably sourced meat and seafood, might include roasted Haida Gwaii halibut or butter-poached venison tenderloin. Simply grilled proteins with a choice of sides and sauces are also an option. The service is discreet and attentive and there are more than 800 labels on the wine list. If the weather is fine, the summer-only Veranda serves lunch, cocktails, and early-evening snacks, as well as the best sunset views over the harbor.