Fodor's Expert Review Tojo's

Hidekazu Tojo is a sushi-making legend in Vancouver, with thousands of special preparations stored in his creative mind. The first to introduce omakase to Vancouver, he is also the creator of the '"Inside out'" Tojo Roll, now universally known as the "California Roll." In this bright modern, high-ceilinged space, complete with a separate sake lounge, the prime perch is at the sushi bar, a convivial ringside seat for watching the creation of edible art. The best way to experience Tojo's creativity is to order omakase (chef's choice); the chef will keep offering you wildly adventurous fare, both raw and cooked, until you cry uncle. Budget a minimum of C$80 per person (before drinks) for five courses; tabs topping C$120 per person for six courses or more are routine. Cocktail hour runs from 4 to 6 p.m. Monday to Saturday.