Yucatán and Campeche States Restaurants

Expect a superb variety of cuisines—primarily Yucatecan, of course, but also Lebanese, Italian, French, Chinese, vegetarian, and Mexican—at very reasonable prices. Reservations are advised for the pricier restaurants on weekends and in high season. Beach towns, such as Progreso, Río Lagartos, and Celestún, tend to serve fresh, simply prepared seafood. The regional cuisine of Campeche is renowned throughout Mexico. Specialties include fish and shellfish stews, cream soups, shrimp cocktail, squid and octopus, and panuchos (chubby rounds of fried cornmeal covered with refried beans and topped with onion and shredded turkey or chicken).

Mexicans generally eat lunch in the afternoon—certainly not before 2. If you want to eat at noon, call ahead to verify hours. In Mérida the locals make a real event of late dinners, especially in summer. Casual (but neat) dress is acceptable at all restaurants. Avoid wearing shorts or casual sandals in the more expensive places, and anywhere at all—especially in the evening—if you don't want to look like a tourist. Although food servers at most local restaurants are kind and hospitable, they don’t always show it like they do in the States. Be patient and realize that, for many, the language barrier may cause them to be more reserved but not necessarily unfriendly. It's common practice for restaurants to include gratuity and tax in the total bill, so double-check your bill before adding a tip.

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  • 1. Amaro

    $$

    The romantic patio of this historic home glows with candlelight in the evening; during the day things look a lot more casual. The emphasis here is on vegetarian dishes like avocado pizza and chaya soup (made from a green plant similar to spinach), and healthful juices. (Meat, fish, and shellfish are served here in moderation.) Other local favorites include stuffed mushrooms, spinach lasagna, cochinita pibil, and butterfly chicken breast in a cream sauce. Prices are reasonable, and the service is always excellent. Expect live music in the open-air courtyard daily between 8:30 pm and midnight.

    Calle 59 No. 507, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-928–2451

    Known For

    • Upscale Yucatecan cuisine
    • Good selection of vegetarian offerings
    • Romantic atmosphere
  • 2. El Príncipe Tutul-Xiu

    $

    This open restaurant under a giant palapa roof is an inviting spot for lunch or an early dinner (it closes at 7 pm). Though you'll find the same Yucatecan dishes here as elsewhere—pollo pibil, lime soup—the preparation is excellent and portions are generous. Best of all is the poc chuc—little bites of pork marinated in sour orange, garlic, and chiles and grilled over charcoal. (There is also a Mérida location if you don't want to make the trip to the original one.) 

    Calle 26 No. 208, Yucatán, 97850, Mexico
    997-978–4257

    Known For

    • Tasty poc chuc
    • Huge portions at reasonable prices
    • Small-town atmosphere
  • 3. Hacienda Teya

    $$

    A henequen ranch in the 17th century, this beautiful hacienda just outside Mérida serves some of the best regional food around. Start with sopa de lima, then move on to standout mains like poc chuc or cochinita pibil (both served with homemade tortillas). The restaurant has the Yucatán's largest wine selection, and desserts come with a complimentary digestif. After your meal, stroll through the gardens where peacocks roam. Most patrons are well-to-do Meridanos enjoying a leisurely lunch: let that be your guide on what to wear here. A guitarist serenades you and your fellow diners between 2 and 5 on weekends. If you’d like to spend the night, the hacienda has six handsome suites ($$), but you'll need to book ahead for weekends and holidays.

    Carretera 180, Mérida, Yucatán, 97370, Mexico
    999-988–0800

    Known For

    • Largest wine selection in town
    • Country setting with lovely gardens
    • Elegant atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Dec. 25–Jan. 1. No dinner
  • 4. Apoala

    $$

    Apoala is one of the best choices for Mexican food on Parque Santa Lucia, Mérida's lively, restaurant-lined plaza. The menu includes both Oaxacan and Yucatecan dishes—moles and beef dishes from the former, ceviches and cochinita pibil from the latter. The presentation is elevated without being fussy.

    Calle 60 471, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-923–1979

    Known For

    • Oaxacan and Yucatecan dishes
    • Outdoor seating
    • Elevated approach to Mexican cuisine
  • 5. Casa Chica

    $

    The food is not the primary draw at this restaurant, though it does a good enough rendition of basic pastas, salads, and burgers as well as some Mexican bar-food favorites. Instead, its popularity is due to delicious cocktails, aguas frescas, and a lively atmosphere. You can choose a seat outside and watch the activity on Paseo Montejo, or sit inside where the people-watching is just as interesting. 

    498B, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico

    Known For

    • Lively atmosphere
    • Outdoor seating on Paseo de Montejo
    • Good value
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  • 6. Cenaduría Portales de San Francisco

    $

    Campechano families come here to enjoy a light supper, perhaps a delicious sandwich claveteado of honey-and-clove-spiked ham, along with a typical drink like agua de chaya, a mixture of pineapple water and chaya (a leafy vegetable similar to spinach). The dining area is a wide colonial veranda with marble flooring and tables decked out in plastic tablecloths. No alcohol is served, and you simply mark your choices on the paper menu: for tacos, "m" means maíz, or corn; for tortillas, "h" stands for harina, or flour. On weekends, try the tamal torteado, a tamale with beans, tomato sauce, turkey, and pork wrapped in banana leaves—although not listed on the menu, it's available on request. Known for: banana-wrapped tamales on weekends; stylish veranda; cool evening breezes.

    Calle 10 No. 86, 24040, Mexico
    981-811–1491

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch
  • 7. El Atrio del Mayab

    $

    This elegant colonial house on the south side of the main square specializes in hearty Yucatecan cuisine. Pollo X'catik (chicken baked in butter cream) and the city's eponymous dish, lomitos de Valladolid (cubed pork loin in a tomato-chile sauce), are menu highlights. If you're not feeling quite so adventurous, you can choose from mar y tierra (meaning, basically, surf and turf) options. The small front dining room is stylish, but we recommend snagging a table in the leafy back courtyard—it's perfect for lunch on a hot afternoon. El Atrio keeps long hours, opening at 7 am and going strong until 11:30 pm.

    Calle 41 No. 204A, Valladolid, Yucatán, 97780, Mexico
    985-856–2394

    Known For

    • Stylish setting
    • Lush courtyard
    • Local flavors
  • 8. Eladio's

    $

    An outpost of lively Eladio's in Mérida, this bar and restaurant is extremely popular with cruise-ship passengers who disembark in Progreso. You can sample typical Yucatecan dishes like longaniza asada (baked sausage) and pollo pibil (citrus-pickled chicken) while seated beneath a tall palapa on the beach. As you’d expect, fresh seafood dishes are also on the menu. Tasty appetizers are free with your drinks, and there are plenty to choose from. Live music every afternoon except Tuesday adds to the party atmosphere.

    Av. Malecón at Calle 80, Progreso, Yucatán, 97320, Mexico
    969-935–5670

    Known For

    • Yummy free appetizers
    • Ocean breezes
    • Fresh seafood
  • 9. K'u'uk

    $$$

    K’u’uk, meaning "sprout" in Mayan, offers Mérida's most unique dining experience. Located in a historic mansion facing the Monumento a la Patria on Paseo de Montejo, the restaurant's cutting-edge menu features eight courses, each prepared using molecular gastronomy and fresh ingredients, most of them grown on-site. Many of the Yucatecan dishes are cooked in the custom built "pibil" oven, a modernized version of the underground cooking method that gives food that smoky flavor. Although small, each course is a work of art—picture dollops of baby pumpkin dusted with goat cheese the texture of powdered snow or transparent potatoes as thin as tissue paper. Desserts are sprinkled with dehydrated berries, honey-soaked seeds, and cilantro pieces that look more like Skittles. K’u’uk is chic in every sense of the word, from the cutlery and decor to the wine cellar and suave waiters. Plan to stay awhile, since dining takes between two and three hours.

    Av Rómulo Rozo 488, Mérida, Yucatán, 97100, Mexico
    999-944–3377

    Known For

    • Pibil-style (Mayan oven) cooking
    • Leisurely—some say “slow”—dining experience
    • Artistic desserts

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No dinner Sun
  • 10. La Negrita

    $

    This cantina at the corner of Calles 62 and 49 is popular with locals, expats, and visitors to Mérida with its large courtyard as well as large margaritas and other cocktails. You'll be offered free bar snacks as long as you keep ordering drinks, though it is worth ordering some of the delicious (if basically prepared) ceviches, enchiladas, and tacos, too. Live bands play most evenings. 

    Calle 62 415, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    52-999-121–0411

    Known For

    • Live music
    • Mexican bar snacks
    • Oversized cocktails
  • 11. La Poderosa

    $

    Residents of Mérida have strong opinions on who makes the best salbutes and panuchos, two signature Yucatecan dishes, and La Poderosa is at the top of many lists. All the seats at this restaurant in the southern part of Centro—near San Sebastian's square and market—are outdoors, and it's an especially lovely spot on warm evenings. Its evening hours also make it stand out from some other popular casual eateries, which are often open for breakfast and lunch only. A meal of three or four empanadas, panuchos, or salbutes, accompanied by a soda, will only set you back about $5. 

    Calle 70 568D, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico

    Known For

    • Outdoor seating
    • Excellent panuchos and salbutes
    • Cheap eats
  • 12. Los Almendros

    $$

    This vintage Yucatecan restaurant with high colonial ceilings and an elegant atmosphere is a longtime local favorite. The combinado yucateco (Yucatecan combination plate) is a great way to try different dishes: cochinita pibil, longaniza asada (grilled pork sausages), escabeche de Valladolid (turkey with chiles, onions, and seasonings in an acidic sauce), and poc chuc (slices of pork in a sour-orange sauce). In fact, Los Almendros invented some dishes that have become Yucatecan classics—including the cheese soup, which is also spectacular. A live trio performs daily from 2 to 5 pm.

    Calle 50A No. 493, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-928–5459

    Known For

    • Combination platters
    • Cheese soup
    • Reasonable prices
  • 13. Luz de Luna

    $

    Inside a colonial-era building, this small family-run restaurant is decorated with Mexican crafts. Since most customers are foreign tourists, you'll find familiar favorites like burritos, pasta, sandwiches, and fajitas on the enormous menu. Grilled fish and steak are served with rice and shredded lettuce, as are the rolled tacos and enchiladas topped with red or green chile sauce. There are only five tables, but somehow this place can seem overwhelmingly busy on a packed night. If you’re an early riser, stop by for French toast or one of the breakfast crepes. Take note, Luz de Luna does not serve alcohol. Known for: traditional Mexican menu; hearty breakfasts; good selection of coffees.

    Calle 59 No. 6, 24000, Mexico
    981-134–7158

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun.
  • 14. Marganzo

    $$

    Traditional Yucatecan dishes—like panuchos (fried masa cakes stuffed with beans and piled high with shredded meat, lettuce, sour onions, and other toppings) or chile mestizo (poblano pepper stuffed with shredded meat)—are the specialty at Marganzo. If you aren't sure what to order, ask to see the album containing photos of top dishes with multilingual captions. Waitresses, dressed in colorful skirts from the region, offer helpful explanations. Lunch and dinner menus are finished off with a complimentary tamarind margarita, and a guitar trio performs some evenings. But this is also a great place for breakfast if you want to get an early start on sightseeing. You can try plain agua de chaya here—in other restaurants the chaya-flavored water is often sweetened with pineapple.

    Calle 8, No. 267, 24000, Mexico
    981-811–3898

    Known For

    • Colorful local flavor
    • Attentive service
    • Stylish colonial decor
  • 15. Pancho's

    $$$ | Centro | Mexican

    In the evening this patio restaurant is bathed in candlelight and the glow from tiny white lights decorating the tropical shrubs. Much of the menu, as well as the decor, is geared toward tourists—you can even buy a Pancho's T-shirt on your way out. Although you won't find authentic Yucatecan dishes at this lively spot, the tasty tacos, fajitas, burritos, and other dishes will be pleasantly recognizable to those familiar with Mexican food served north of the border. Waiters—dressed in white muslin shirts and pants of the Revolution era—recommend the shrimp flambéed in tequila, and the tequila in general. Happy hour is weekdays from 6 to 8 pm.

    Calle 59 No. 509, between Calles 60 and 62, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-923–0942

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No lunch.
  • 16. Restaurante Kinich

    $

    The town’s most comfortable eatery comes complete with white tablecloths under a wide palapa, surrounded by plants and with a burbling fountain. In a small hut in the back, the cooks make tortillas by hand and menu highlights include locally made longaniza (a tasty grilled pork sausage) and excellent sopa de lima. A small shop sells a carefully selected and cleverly displayed collection of local folk art. The restaurant is open evenings until 8, but keeps later hours when there's a sound-and-light show downtown.

    Calle 27 No. 299, 97540, Mexico
    988-954–0489

    Known For

    • Longaniza (a local sausage)
    • Folk art
    • Traditional atmosphere
  • 17. Restaurante Muul

    $

    Residents of Izamal have strong opinions on which restaurants make the best panuchos, salbutes, papadzules, and other local specialities, but Restaurante Muul is on many short lists. The atmosphere is no-frills, though the location is convenient, right on the main plaza just steps from the ex-convent. 

    Calle 28 300, Izamal, Yucatán, 97540, Mexico

    Known For

    • Location on the main plaza
    • Local specialties
    • Good value

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Casual
  • 18. Wayan'e

    $

    This oasis of carnivorous delights serves tortas—Mexico's answer to the sandwich—and tacos at four locations in Mérida. In addition to ham and cheese tortas, you can get pork loin in smoky chipotle-chile sauce, chorizo sausage, turkey strips sautéed with onions and peppers, and several other delicious combos guaranteed to go straight to your arteries. If you don't speak Spanish, just point to one of 20 types of taco ingredients while they heat up your tortilla. Not a meat lover? Try some unusual combos, like chopped cactus pads sautéed with mushrooms, or scrambled eggs with chaya or string beans. All of the Wayan'e locations are casual and unassuming, with plastic tables and chairs, but most diners gather around the counter where the food is handed over. The restaurant closes when the food runs out, which is usually around 2 pm.

    Calle 59 408, Mérida, Yucatán, 97000, Mexico
    999-938–0676

    Known For

    • Fun, informal vibe
    • Astounding taco selection
    • Torta-style sandwiches

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner. Closed Sun, Reservations not accepted

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