Fodor's Expert Review Sabor de Oaxaca

This open-fronted but underventilated restaurant near the main plaza is the perfect spot to learn the ABCs of traditional Oaxacan cooking. Try one of the massive sampler plates (enough for two or three people). You can go as far as nopal (cactus) soup or a side dish of chapulines, the spicy, toasted grasshoppers that locals consider a delicacy. For the less adventurous diner, any one of the chicken dishes in gently spiced mole sauce is recommended. This is also a good place for a late-night snack of tlayudas (giant open-faced tortillas with toppings) or queso fundido (a heavenly fondue).