9 Best Sights in Mitla and the Textile Villages, Oaxaca

Mitla, 46 km (27 miles) southeast of Oaxaca, expanded and grew in influence as Monte Albán declined. Like its predecessor, Mitla is a complex started by the Zapotec and later taken over by the Mixtec. Unlike Monte Albán, Mitla's attraction lies not in its massive scale, but in its unusual ornamentation; the stonework depicts mesmerizing abstract designs with a powerful harmony. The striking architecture, which dates as late as the 1500s, is almost without equal within Mexico thanks to the exquisite greca workmanship on the fine local volcanic stone, which ranges in hue from pink to yellow.

The first structure you enter is the Grupo del Norte, where the Spanish settlers built Mitla's Catholic cathedral literally on top of the Zapotec structure, integrating the foundation. It's comparable to having the history of Oaxaca laid out before you in one building—truly remarkable. Mitla's name comes from the Nahuatl word mictlan, meaning "place of the dead." Don't expect to see anything resembling a graveyard, however; the Zapotec and Mixtec typically buried their dead under the entrance to the structure where the deceased resided.

There are a few underground tombs in the impressive Grupo de las Columnas (Group of the Columns), the main section of the ruins that are fun to climb down into. In that group is also the palace that forms the most striking architectural achievement of Mitla.

The most spectacular sights at Dainzú are the well-restored ball court and the Tumba del Jaguar (Tomb of the Jaguar), with the fearsome head of a jaguar perched above the door. Pre-Columbian pottery shards litter the ground all over, evidence that this is a site that, unlike Monte Albán or Mitla, is still in the earlier stages of excavation. You'll likely have it to yourself, too. The grass-covered ruins are particularly pretty in the late-afternoon light. Note that there are no facilities here. Keep an eye out for the turnoff, because it's poorly marked; arriving from Oaxaca City, it's right before an overpass.

American Ron Cooper is one of the most accomplished mezcal exporters in the business; his Del Maguey bottles contain mezcal sourced from extremely traditional artisanal producers in the countryside. They're prized across America, commanding upward of $70 a bottle. You can visit Cooper's bottling plant and tasting room by appointment, or, for a fee, Ron will take you on a fascinating insider's tasting tour of the region, where you'll meet the old-school producers themselves.

About 14 km (9 miles) east of Oaxaca on Carretera 190, the hamlet of Santa María del Tule is known for El Tule, the huge cypress tree that towers over the lovely colonial-era church behind it. Thought to be more than 2,000 years old, it's one of the world's largest trees, with roots buried more than 60 feet in the ground and a canopy arcing some 140 feet high. It has an estimated weight of nearly 640,000 tons; it would take 35 adults to embrace the trunk. In front of the church is a pleasant garden with animal-shape topiaries. There's a nominal fee to enter the grounds. At informal outdoor eateries in the tree's shadow, local ladies tend large griddles, serving atole (a nutritious drink of ground cornmeal or rice), soups, and snacks.

Lambityeco was built as the civilization of nearby Mitla was waning. The city flourished until AD 750, when it was abandoned. Many archaeologists believe the inhabitants moved to the better-protected city of Yagul. The Palacio de los Racoqui, or Palace of the Lords, is the last of six larger and larger temples built on top of each other. Here you'll see a pair of carvings of a nobleman and his wife. Between these carvings is the tomb where they were buried. Nearby is the Palacio de Cocijo, dedicated to its namesake, a Zapotec god. A pair of carvings depict the rain god wearing an impressive headdress. The site is clearly visible from the highway.

Mezcal Benevá, at the Rancho Zapata restaurant complex, is a short drive out of the town of Mitla toward Oaxaca. Take a guided tour through the mezcal distilling process; during one part, a horse walks around in circles, stomping on the cooked agave. Benevá's mezcals are also notable, especially their five-year-old gran reserva.

The tiny Museo Shan-Dany has some interesting exhibits about the archaeological sites scattered around the area. Of particular note are several incense burners bearing the likeness of Cocijo, the Zapotec god honored at a temple in Lambityeco.

The 17th-century Templo de la Preciosa Sangre de Cristo towers over the main square of Teotitlán del Valle. Some parts of the facade have been scraped away to reveal stones carved with Zapotec designs that were used during the building of the church.

The ruins at Yagul aren't as elaborate as those at Monte Albán or Mitla, but their position atop a hill makes them worth a visit. This city was predominantly a fortress protecting a group of temples. The Palacio de los Seis Patios (Palace of the Six Patios), a maze of hallways leading to hidden courtyards, is fun to explore.

If you find the eerie Tumba Triple (Triple Tomb) locked, give the guard $1 or so to open it for you. He may even let you borrow a flashlight to get a good look at the spooky carved skulls. Follow the steep trail that starts near the parking lot for a good hike and great views over the valley and ruins. The site has restrooms, but no other facilities.