Fodor's Expert Review Nicos
This restaurant is a quick cab from the Polanco area, and a must-visit for fans of traditional Mexican cuisine who think they've tasted it all. In a barely adorned, simply elegant space, chef Gerardo Vázquez Lugo (whose parents opened Nicos in 1957) is a stickler for ingredients sourced from small producers (he also has a small shop across the street, Nicolasa) and dishes that can seem nuevo but are all rooted in history. The sopa seca de natas—several crepes layered with cream, tomato, and poblano chili—is a 19th-century recipe from a convent in Guadalajara; octopus stewed in its ink with pecans, almonds, and pine nuts is a generations-old recipe from Veracruz; and the house salad has edible flowers, lemon verbena, and artisanal cheese from Chiapas State. There's no dinner, but it's open until 7:30.
Av. Cuitlahuac 3102
Mexico City, Quintana Roo 02080, Mexico