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Costa Rica's capital beckons with the country's most varied and cosmopolitan restaurant scene. Italian, Spanish, Asian, French, Middle Eastern, Peruvian—they're all here, along with upscale Costa Rican cuisine.Wherever you eat in San José, be it a small soda or a sophisticated restaurant, dress is casual. Meals tend to be taken
Costa Rica's capital beckons with the country's most varied and cosmopolitan restaurant scene. Italian, Spanish, Asian, French, Middle Eastern, Peruvian—they're all here, along with upscale Costa Rican cuisine.Wherever you eat in San José, be it a small soda or a sophis
Costa Rica's capital beckons with the country's most varied and cosmopolitan restaurant scene. Italian, Spanish, Asian,
Costa Rica's capital beckons with the country's most varied and cosmopolitan restaurant scene. Italian, Spanish, Asian, French, Middle Eastern, Peruvian—they're all here, along with upscale Costa Rican cuisine.
Wherever you eat in San José, be it a small soda or a sophisticated restaurant, dress is casual. Meals tend to be taken earlier than in other Latin American countries; few restaurants serve past 9 or 10 pm. Local cafés usually open for breakfast at 7 am and remain open until 7 or 8 in the evening. Restaurants serving international cuisine are usually open from 11 am to 9 pm. Some cafés that serve mainly San José office workers limit evening hours and close entirely on Sunday. Restaurants that do open on Sunday do a brisk business: it's the traditional family day out (and the maid's day off). Watch your things, no matter where you dine. Even at the best restaurants, thieves occasionally target purses slung over chair arms or placed under chairs.
The excellent, reasonably priced homemade pastas make this popular lunch spot worth the stop. Begin your meal with fresh bread and excellent antipasti, and make sure to save room for tiramisu. The back patio makes a pleasant respite from the bustle of the city. Soft, live music is on tap Friday evening.
The Lebanese owners at one of San José's few Middle Eastern restaurants serve a wide variety of dishes from their native region, but if you can't decide, the meze platter serves two people and gives you a little bit of everything. Try the juicy shish kebab de cordero (of lamb) or, if you're feeling especially adventurous, the raw ground-meat kebbe naye (with wheat meal) and kafta naye (without wheat meal). A hip bar in the back serves the same menu. On Wednesday night there is live synthesizer music; on Thursday night, check out the immensely popular 8 pm belly-dancing show.
The generous homemade meals at this ranch-style restaurant are delicious, and the incredibly friendly waitstaff, who epitomize Costa Rican hospitality and dress in folkloric clothing, prepare your coffee filtered through the traditional cloth chorreador. The place keeps late hours, just in case those late-night gallo pinto (Costa Rican–style rice and beans) pangs hit. Some disparage the restaurant as "too touristy"; perhaps it is, but it's also fun. The place is relatively open and sits on a street with a lot of traffic, which is its one drawback.
Avdas. 2–4, C. 13, San José, San José, 10104, Costa Rica
Set within an antiques shop, the internationally inspired all-tapas menu includes Thai-style tuna salad, red-snapper couscous, and other tasty dishes. The colonial-style house is only about a decade old, but attention to architectural detail and antique furnishings make you think the building was transplanted from Antigua or Granada. Space is limited, so reservations are a must. The January–April dry season takes the pressure off a bit, allowing seating to spill over from the covered veranda to the open courtyard. You dine among the many antiques for sale here, so small children are not allowed.
To sample the crème de la crème of locally made ice cream, head to Pops. After a long walk on crowded sidewalks, it may be just what the doctor ordered. Mango is a favorite flavor. You'll find several outlets downtown, as well as around the metro area and the country. This longtime Costa Rican institution is now Colombian-owned.
C. 3, Avda. Ctl., San José, San José, 10101, Costa Rica
Reasonable prices and a hearty breakfast of gallo pinto (beans and rice), scrambled eggs, bread, and coffee at this artsy restaurant will fortify you for a morning of sightseeing. The bargain $7 lunch special consists of the standard casado—choose from fish, chicken, beef, or pork—accompanied by rice, beans, vegetable, salad, and dessert. This place is far from your typical mom-and-pop shop, though.
The baskets of fruit and vegetables at the entrance and the wall of herbal teas, health-food books, and fresh herbs for sale by the register signal that you're in a vegetarian-friendly joint. The bright and airy macrobiotic restaurant serves homemade bread, soy burgers, pita sandwiches (veggie or chicken), fruit shakes, and a hearty plato del día that comes with soup, green salad, and a beverage. The ensalada mixta is a meal in itself, packed with root vegetables native to Costa Rica. Shakti is an oasis in a mostly meat-loving country and is worth the detour a few blocks south of the standard tourist path.
Avda. 8, Cs. 11–13, San José, San José, 10103, Costa Rica
The indigenous cultures of Costa Rica don't get too much attention from tourists, but this small, intimate restaurant in Barrio Escalante is trying to change that by incorporating recipes derived from the history and culture of the eight surviving indigenous ethnic groups. Sikwa has deliciously (and respectfully) bridged the gap between the country's past and present as each meal tells a different story, which the chef and servers will happily share with diners. An otherwise straightforward drink menu includes some funky highlights like a gin-tonic with cacao nibs.
Don't expect anything fancy at this extremely popular restaurant, but food here is cheap and filling. The ubiquitous gallo pinto for breakfast and casados (meat, fish, or poultry, accompanied by rice, cabbage salad, and dessert) for lunch are on the menu, along with a variety of sandwiches and burgers. You can dine outdoors, but you'll have to contend with the traffic noise and the sight of the guard flagging cars in and out of the tiny parking lot.
C. 42, Avdas. 2–4, San José, San José, 10108, Costa Rica
Although this part of town is a bit off the standard tourist track, the pizza here is worth the trip, especially for the perfectly crispy (but not too thin) crust. Enjoy a glass of the house wine with your meal, and top things off with flan or tiramisu for dessert. This homey spot contains a few wooden tables, a small outdoor patio, and a large picture window. In true Costa Rican, no-real-addresses style, the directions are given—unironically—as "100 meters south of Pizza Hut."
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