55 Best Sights in The Black Sea Coast and Lake Van, Turkey

On the tranquil, uninhabited islet of Akdamar, among the wild olive and almond trees, stand the scant remains of a monastery that include the truly splendid Church of the Holy Cross. Built in AD 921 by an Armenian king, Gagik Artsruni of Vaspurakan, the compound was originally part of a palace, but was later converted to a monastery. Incredible high-relief carvings on the exterior make the church one of the most enchanting spots in Turkey. Much of the Old Testament is depicted here: look for Adam and Eve, David and Goliath, and Jonah and the whale. Along the top is a frieze of running animals; another frieze shows a vineyard where laborers work the fields and women dance with bears; and, of course, King Gagik, almost hidden above the entrance, is depicted, offering his church to Christ. The monastery operated until WWI, and since 2010 annual religious services have been allowed, usually in early September.

There are a handful of small cafés and gift shops on the island, and a few coves that offer the opportunity to swim in the alkaline lake. One of the most charming things about the island may be the large number of gray rabbits scampering about. To reach Akdamar from Van, take a minibus (20 TL) or follow Route 300 to Gevaş, which is about 20 miles away. Just past Gevaş, you'll see ferries waiting at the well-marked landing to collect the required number of passengers—between 10 and 15—for the 20-minute ride. Normally it costs 30 TL per person but if there aren't enough passengers the round-trip is around 300 TL. Boats return to the mainland hourly until 6 pm.

Ayder is also known for its kaplıcaları (hot springs), reputed to cure all types of ailments. Whether this is true or not, the springs, housed in a modern, marble-lined building near the village's mosque, are good for a relaxing soak after a day of hiking. There's a large pool to splash around in and a hammam area where you can give yourself a good scrub. There are separate facilities for men and women, as well as private rooms for couples that want to bathe together.

The Romans left a strong mark on Diyarbakır—not only did they lay the foundations for its famous city walls, but they created the basic layout of the old town: a rough rectangle with two main streets that cross and connect the four gates that are found at each compass point. The walls were constructed by the Byzantine Emperor Constantius in the 4th century and various Arab and Turkish rulers restored and added to them over the centuries, until the local Artukid Turcoman emir al Malik al-Salih Mahmud gave them their current form in 1208. On the whole, the walls remain in good shape along their entire length; indeed, if you feel like a bit of an adventure, the best way to appreciate these great walls is to wander along the top. Of the original 72 towers, 67 are still standing, decorated with myriad inscriptions in the language of every conqueror and with Seljuk reliefs of animals and men; you can also explore their inner chambers and corridors. In 2015, the walls became a UNESO World Heritage sight, along with the surrounding Hevsel Gardens, the greenbelt between Diyarbakir and the Tigris River.

Erected around 9,000 BC, 6,000 years before Stonehenge, before even the invention of agriculture, this series of stone circles on a hill 15 km (9 miles) northeast of the town of Urfa have been popularly declared the "World's Oldest Temple." The stones' purpose has been subject to wide interpretation: some believe this was a burial site; others, a place of ritual initiation, or that each circle belonged to a different tribe that gathered here for ritual and trade. What is clear, though, is that no one lived here, and that it would have taken hundreds of people to transport and erect the pillars. The site consists of a series of circles and ovals formed by large T-shaped pillars of equal height, usually with two larger pillars inside. The pillars are thought to have held a roof. Many of the outer surfaces are carved, some are anthropomorphic, others depict the savage nightmares of a hunter-gatherer's life, such as snakes, foxes, vultures, scorpions, and wild boar. Most curiously of all, the structures were deliberately buried when the site was abandoned. Four structures have been exposed since excavations began in 1995, and another 16 have been identified by geophysicists; excavations continue in spring and fall. The circles themselves are off-limits and enclosed by low fences, but visitors are welcome to follow pathways from which all are clearly visible. Take the old highway the D400 east from Şanlıurfa and look for the marked turning on the left just as you leave the built-up area. This road continues about 15 km (10 miles), crossing over the new highway. Shortly after this is a turn, left for the last few miles up the hill to the site. Alternatively, a return taxi (including waiting time) from Urfa should cost around 80 TL. While the site is open year-round, many of the pillars are covered in winter in order to protect them from the elements.

The region's most famous mountain is actually an extinct volcano covered with snow even in summer and soaring dramatically 16,850 feet above the arid plateau and dominating the landscape. According to Genesis, after the Great Flood, "the waters were dried up from off the earth; and Noah removed the covering of the ark, and looked, and behold, the face of the ground was dry." The survivors, as the story goes, had just landed on top of Mt. Ararat. Many other ancient sources—Chaldean, Babylonian, Chinese, Assyrian—also tell of an all-destroying flood and of one man who heroically escaped its consequences. The truth is that people have been searching for the actual ark since medieval times, and nothing has ever been found. The mountain can be easily viewed from Doğubeyazıt, although actually climbing it requires a permit that can only be obtained by a licensed agency and usually takes at least a few days to acquire. Be prepared for a lot of walking on gravel, and be forewarned that the summit is often shrouded in clouds. Local tour offices will take you on a day trip that includes a visit to a village at the base of the mountain, which is the closest you can get to Ararat without a permit.

Clinging to the side of a sheer cliff, the Sumela Monastery (also known as Meryemana, which is Mother Mary in Turkish, because it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary) is stunning to behold. Orthodox monks founded the retreat in the 5th century, living in clifftop caves surrounding a shrine that housed a miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary painted by St. Luke. The labyrinth of courtyards, corridors, and chapels date from the time of Emperor Alexius III of Trebizond, who was crowned here in 1340—the monastery continued under the Sultans, remaining until the Greeks were expelled from Turkey in 1922. Although the icon and other treasures have been removed, extensive frescoes done between the 14th and 18th century remain. Though sections have been chipped away or scribbled over with graffiti, they are impressive nonetheless in their depictions of Old and New Testament images—look for an Arab-looking Jesus, an almost African Virgin, and a scene of Adam and Eve, expelled from Eden, taking up a plough.

The first, lower, parking lot is beside the river (and the Sumela Restaurant). From there a well-worn trail to the monastery is a rigorous 40-minute uphill hike. Farther on is a second, upper parking lot, at the level of the monastery, a 15-minute walk away on a level path. Most organized day excursions from Trabzon drop you at the upper lot and collect you from the lower one. An extensive restoration process was completed in 2021 and the monastery was reopened, but as of December 2021 it was again under restoration and closed to visitors. Though still visible from the outside, visitors should call in advance and inquire about the restoration status.

Urfa's fantastic archaeological museum reopened in 2015 in an imposingly large building amid leafy open space. It still has an impressive collection covering the area's long history, interspersed with lifelike recreations of the living conditions in prehistoric times. Especially interesting are sculptures from Göbekli Tepe and the full-size re-creation of one of its temples, but the star of the show is a white, alien-looking statue with obsidian eyes, found in the Gölbaşı lake in 1993. Nearly 13,500 years old, it is the world's oldest full-size man-made human figure. There are also Hittite sculptures from the area, a collection of exquisitely carved antique wooden doors, and a classical sculpture garden.

Also included in the ticket price is entry to the neighboring Haleplibahçe Mosaic Museum, which houses an incredible array of mosaics that would have once formed part of a Roman-era palace. These include mosaics depicting the life of Achilles, including his mother holding him by the heel and dipping him into the waters of the River Styx. and a magnificent scene of Amazon queens hunting wild beasts.

What claims to be the largest mosaic museum in the world houses a stunning collection of Roman-era mosaics rescued from a nearby archaeological site called Zeugma, which was previously submerged under the waters of a man-made lake. The intricate mosaics—some portraying scenes from Roman mythology, others more artistic geometric designs—are dazzling to behold. The fragment of a mosaic depicting a young woman with an enigmatic gaze (called "The Gypsy Girl") is quickly earning Mona Lisa–like iconic status across Turkey. Many of the mosaics depict less common myths, such as that of Achilles, hidden by his mother before the Trojan War and disguised in women's clothing but tricked into showing interest in a sword, and Parthenope and Metiochus, the Romeo and Juliet of the ancient world. Destruction by illegal excavations is also highlighted, and several of the mosaics on display did time in private collections in the United States before being recovered.

On the shore of Lake Van, the remains of the small town of Ahlat are an impressive open-air museum of what was an important cultural destination. The remains of Seljuk and Ottoman mosques and fortresses, and the medieval cemetery with its impressive collection of monumental türbe (tombs), are the main attractions. A small museum on the sprawling site contains a collection of Uratian metalwork and pottery.

The heart of Trabzon's social activity is its pleasing central square, Atatürk Alanı, also known as simply Meydan. In Byzantine and Ottoman times, the camel caravans assembled here before heading across the mountains. Today the square is full of shady tea gardens and surrounded by restaurants and most of the city's hotels. Regular minibuses headed for the bus station and other local destinations leave from beneath the overpass at the southern end.

Trabzon's wealthy citizens once retreated to villas in the hills above town and Greek banker Konstantin Kabayanidis built this attractive white mansion, set in a small forest with nice views of the city below, in the beginning of the 20th century. Atatürk stayed here during visits to the city in 1930 and 1937, and the house became a museum in 1943. Much of the original furniture remains in place.

Trabzon's best-known Byzantine monument is this well-preserved 13th-century church that was converted into a mosque in Ottoman times. It sits on a bluff overlooking the Black Sea and inside, the highlights include wonderful Byzantine frescoes housed in the west porch: technicolor angels on the ceiling, Christ preaching in the Temple, the Annunciation, and the wedding at Cana—all executed in a style that shows strong Italian influences. Often overlooked is the graffiti of ships, carved into the outside of the apse by sailors for good luck. A shaded tea garden near the entrance is a popular place for breakfast. Some of the Byzantine-era frescoes in the central dome have been covered by white, umbrella-like fixtures because images are forbidden in mosques.

The heart of the bazaar is the Zincirli Bedestan, with shops selling copper work, mother-of-pearl inlay, saddles, and Ottoman-style leather shoes. Beyond the bedestan is the Bakırcılar Çarşısı, the market of the coppersmiths, where an orchestra of craftspeople tap out bowls and coffee cups between customers. From here you emerge at the Tahmis Coffee House, one of the most traditional places to try the local menengiç (wild pistachio) coffee and where, legend has it, the Sultan Murat IV dropped in for coffee on his way to conquer Baghdad in 1638 (the current shop was built after a fire destroyed the original in the 19th century). The neighboring Sufi lodge, now the Mevlevihanesi Vakif Museum, has historic Korans and kilims (along with free admission).

Mardin's lively bazaar runs parallel to the old town's main street, Birinici Caddesi, and is refreshingly free of the stalls selling the usual tourist gifts. This is the place to come if you're looking to buy a new saddle for your donkey or a copper urn—or as is more likely, if you just want to get the feel of an authentic town bazaar. There are also spice shops, fresh fruit and vegetable stands with the produce of the season piled high, and assorted other shops catering to local needs. In the center of the bazaar is the 12th-century Ulu Camii, with its beautifully carved minaret.

The pedestrian-only Kunduracılar Caddesi leads into the maze of the covered bazaar, which includes a 16th-century bedestan, or covered market, that has been restored and now houses several cafés and a number of gift shops. The bazaar predominantly sells inexpensive clothes to locals, but does have a small but appealing section of coppersmiths, who make a variety of bowls, trays, and pots. The city's largest mosque, the Çarşi Cami, was built in 1839 and is joined to the market by an archway.

A short walk east from the park leads to Urfa's bazaar, where in summertime merchants wait patiently in the hot sun for the occasional tour group. The bazaar is filled with small hans—a collection of stores and workshops built around a central courtyard—that have tailors, coppersmiths, and other artisans working away, using what seem like ancient machines and tools. At the literal heart of the bazaar is the wonderful Bedesten and adjacent Gümrük Han, a large courtyard filled with chatting men playing backgammon or chess and sipping tea. Around the courtyard are the small workshops of tailors sewing inexpensive suits. The bazaar is a good place to shop for spices and copper items and you can usually find bargains, especially on carpets and kilims.

Diyarbakır's bazaar encompasses the half dozen streets surrounding Ulu Cami; most stalls are shrines to wrought metal—gates, picks, shovels, plumbing fixtures, plastic shoes, and other things you probably would not want to carry home in your luggage. Across the street from the mosque is the grand 16th-century Hasan Paşa Hanı, a photogenic kervansaray (a roadside inn), housing a few carpet and souvenir dealers. It's a tranquil place to stop for tea or a generous brunch.

From the intersection of İstasyon Caddesi and Atatürk Bulvarı, head southwest into the rabbit warren of the Bey neighborhood. Many of the old houses here have been turned into cafés, which allow the passing visitor to nose about inside. One of the cafés, Papirus Cafeteria on Noter Sokak, is especially popular and features faded frescos in the upstairs rooms. The Bey neighborhood was largely Armenian and three old churches survive. The easiest to find is the Kendirli Church on Atatürk Caddesi built in 1860 with the support of Napoleon III for Armenian Catholics. The main Armenian Orthodox Cathedral, also built in the 19th century, is farther south on Hapişhane Caddesi, now in use as the Kurtuluş Mosque. Farther along this street on the far side is another former church, now the Ömer Ersoy Cultural Centre. Back on Atatürk Caddesi is the City Museum (1 TL). There are very few actual exhibits here; each room has a video screen with an accompanying sound track of the free English-language audio guide. The most interesting rooms are dedicated to Antep's traditional crafts. Free tours of the city depart from the museum every morning.

Down a narrow alleyway north of the Ulu Cami in the old city, the Cahit Sıtkı Tarancı Müzesi is a historic home dating back to 1734 that has been renovated and turned into an ethnographic museum, with rooms displaying scenes of life as it once was in Diyarbakır. The museum, which has a pleasant courtyard with a fountain, offers the best opportunity in town of seeing what an old Diybarbakır house looked like.

Aside from Akdamar, there are several other small islands on Lake Van, with their own Armenian churches. While none are quite as glorious as Akdamar, the most interesting is Çarpanak Island, north of Van, often visited in combination with Adır Island. At Çarpanak Island, a strip of land extends into the water and you can wade for several hundred feet as the water is quite shallow. If you have the time and money, it can make a nice excursion where you'll likely to have the whole island to yourself. You need to hire a whole boat to visit, which costs around 250 or 350 TL.

Trabzon's Byzantine-era citadel was built on part of a hill formed by two ravines, and while not much is left of the building's former glory, the soaring outside walls and massive columns are still impressive (restored after the Ottoman conquest in 1461) and a testament to the fact that no army ever took Trabzon by force, though many tried. The only remaining part of the interior is the 10th-century church of Panagia Chrysokephalos (the Virgin of the Golden Head), which was the city's cathedral and where many of its rulers were married, crowned, and buried. The Ottomans converted it into a mosque, the Ortahisar Camii, in the 15th century.

The northern exit of the Zincirli Bedestan brings you out beside the 19th-century Alaüddevle Mosque, with its large dome. From here Hamdi Kutlar Caddesi leads past more coppersmiths, several restored 19th-century kervansarays, and the small but interesting Emine Göğüş Culinary Museum (1 TL). The street eventually arrives at the prominent kale (castle), built over the layers of the pre-Roman city by the Emperor Justinian in the 6th century and remodeled by the Seljuk Turks in the 12th and 13th centuries. It's a steep walk to the top, but the view over the bazaar district is fantastic (if it ever finally reopens—as of this writing, it was closed for renovations). For now, it's possible to visit the Defense Panorama Museum housed in the approach tunnel, which portrays the city defending itself from French and Armenian attackers in 1920. If you need some relaxation after the excursion, on the far side of the castle you'll find the recently restored Naib Hamam, dating from 1640 (23 TL). It's open to women from 9 to 5, and to men from 6 pm to midnight.

The old town's most recognizable monument is the Dört Ayaklı Minare (Four-Footed Minaret) of the Şeyh Mutahhar Mosque. The minaret balances on four basalt columns, a marvel of medieval engineering. Legend has it that your wish will come true if you circle the minaret seven times.

Just below the citadel, on the way into town, is the Er Rizk Mosque, which dates back to the 14th century and has a beautiful minaret (topped by a stork's nest) that has intricate stone carvings on its exterior.

The park is a shady oasis on hot days or summer evenings, and is home to the famed carp pools. According to legend, King Nimrod, angry at Abraham's condemnation of the king's Assyrian polytheism, set about immolating the patriarch. God awakened natural springs, dousing the fire and saving Abraham. The carp, according to the myth, are an incarnation of the wood from Abraham's pyre. While historically the story might not, well, hold water—they are probably part of a pre-Christian fish shrine—the gorgeous springs remain. The place has a serene and distinctly spiritual feel to it, with groups of visiting pilgrims and families from Turkey and neighboring countries strolling about and feeding what are probably the most pampered fish in the world. Look for the Byzantine era bell tower beside the lake.

While exploring the warren of streets that make up the Bey neighborhood, step into a traditional Gaziantep house, with dressed-up mannequins filling in as residents. The basement carved out of the rock is a common feature of Antep houses, and the shady courtyard is a welcome retreat from the heat and blazing sun. The surprise exhibit is the captured motorcycle of Lawrence of Arabia, who spied against the Ottomans in World War I.

Local legend has it that Abraham was born in the Hazreti İbrahim Doğum Mağarası, a natural cave hidden behind the Hasan Paşa Mosque in the southeast corner of Gölbaşı Parkı. As is usual, men and women enter through separate doorways. Most people huddled inside this small, dark cavern, darkened by 2,000 years of candle smoke, have come to pray, not to snap photos. There's not much to see, but the atmosphere is reverential. Tourists are welcome (many of the visitors inside are themselves from out of town), but remember that this is a shrine.

The inner castle of Diyarbakır's old town is a circular fortress that once held the city's palace and other important buildings. Beside it stands the 16th-century Hazreti Süleymaniye Cami, which contains the grave of the son of Khalid ibn al-Walid, the companion of the prophet Muhammad who died during the city's capture. It has a tall, graceful minaret and is striped with black basalt and pale sandstone, a favorite design of this city's medieval architects. Its courtyard fountain is fed by an underground spring that has supplied cold, clear water to the city for 5,000 years. It has undergone extensive research in recent years and now holds the city's fantastic Archaeological Museum in one of the renovated court buildings. There's also an Atatürk Museum (as it seems no Turkish city is complete without one) and the early Byzantine Church of St. George, which with its two impressive domes is worth a visit.