The Black Sea Coast and Lake Van Restaurants

You won't find many fancy restaurants in this region, but eastern Turkey is the place for smaller eateries offering flavorful local cuisine and welcoming patrons. Food in the Black Sea area relies on dishes made with plenty of butter, rich yellow cheese, corn flour, and fish, especially hamsi (Black Sea anchovies). Although meat kebabs rule the rest of the east, most restaurants will also offer a variety of fresh salads and delicious vegetable dishes cooked in olive oil, along with stews and other ready-made hot dishes, which are usually meat-based. Gaziantep and (to a lesser extent) Mardin have become known as foodie destinations in their own right, where you can find regional specialities in more refined settings.

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  • 1. Tarihi Kalkanoğlu Pilavcısı

    $$

    This charming, family-run restaurant is all dark wood and nostalgia, and is said to have been serving the same dishes since 1856. The specialty is buttery rice with either slow-cooked lamb or kuru fasülye (white beans in a tomato sauce). Accompany your meal with a frothy ayran (salty yogurt drink) or another house speciality: a sweet, refreshing drink made from sun-dried apricots.

    Tophane Sok. 3, Trabzon, Trabzon, Turkey
    462-321–3086

    Known For

    • A local institution
    • Closes at 6 pm
    • Komposto, a juice made from sun-dried apricots

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 2. Çardak Pide

    $

    This busy, counter-serve spot is the place for pide (stone-baked dough with savory toppings). The kavurmalı version, topped with slow-cooked chunks of lamb is especially recommended or, if you can't decide go for the üçlü option, which has three toppings.

    Uzun Sok. 4, Trabzon, Trabzon, Turkey
    462-321–7676

    Known For

    • Kavurmalı pide
    • Sky-light in the seating area
    • Casual, fast-food atmosphere
  • 3. Cemil Usta

    $$

    In an old stone building on the north side of Atatürk Alanı, Cemil Usta serves a mix of seafood and local dishes like akçaabat köfte (the local meatball specialty) and kuymak (fondue made of cheese and cornmeal). Grab a seat street-side or on the long balcony upstairs, which makes this a great spot for watching the square on a summer evening. The service is typically speedy, sometimes bordering on abrupt, but the free hazelnut baklava dessert provides an excuse to linger.

    Atatürk Alanı 6, Trabzon, Trabzon, Turkey
    462-321–6161

    Known For

    • Fast service
    • Local specialties
    • Free hazlenut baklava for dessert
  • 4. Fevzi Hoca

    $$

    There's no menu here at Fevzi Hoca, Trabzon's most serious seafood restaurant; you'll simply be shown the fish available and you choose how you want your order to be cooked. The restaurant is decorated with photos of famous Turks dining on the premises, a hint of just how popular it is. Non-fish eaters can order the delicious akçaabat köfte (meatballs).

    Salacık Mahallesi 61300, Trabzon, Trabzon, Turkey
    462-326–5444

    Known For

    • Hamsi (anchovies) when in season
    • Perenially popular
    • Akçaabat köfte (meatballs) for non-fish eaters
  • 5. Kebabci Ahmet Usta

    $

    This modern dining room on lively pedestrian Uzun Sokak is a busy local favorite. It offers all the standard kebabs and pides, plus a few rarer dishes such as talaş kebabı (lamb wrapped in pastry) and orman kebabı (stewed lamb with vegetables).

    Uzun Sok. 56, Trabzon, Trabzon, Turkey
    462-326–5666

    Known For

    • Casual atmosphere
    • Dishes with lahana, the local black cabbage
    • Specialties like kuymak
  • Recommended Fodor’s Video

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