The Central and Southern Aegean Coast Restaurants

Dining out along the Aegean coast is a pleasure, especially if you enjoy seafood and fresh produce. There are countless seafood restaurants at all price ranges. A typical meal includes an assortment of hot and cold meze (appetizers), a mixed salad, and the catch of the day, capped off with a Turkish dessert. To make it authentic, accompany your meal with rak? (a spirit similar in taste to oúzo). Some of the more common fish you'll find along the Aegean coast are levrek (sea bass), çipura (sea bream), barbunya (red mullet), and lahos (grouper), as well as tasty smaller fish like sardalya (sardines). Note that most fish restaurants charge per kilogram for whole fish, and the prices often aren't listed; ask before ordering to avoid receiving an unexpectedly large bill at the end of an otherwise pleasant meal. Of course, there are plenty of meat and kebab restaurants around, too, if that’s what you’re craving.

For dessert, try local dondurma (Turkish ice cream, often thickened with orchid root or mastic resin), as well as milk puddings and baklava. It’s often better to avoid hotel restaurants at lunch and dinner—you can frequently find better and less expensive food a short walk away—but luxury and boutique hotels might be an exception as they are often firm favorites on the local restaurant scene. And don’t forget street snacks! In season, you can grab fat local Smyrna figs; a cup of icy, dark berry ?erbet (think of it as Ottoman Gatorade); or a sesame-studded feta-and-tomato sandwich, each for less than a dollar in central ?zmir. Simit, the classic Turkish bagel-like street snack, is called gevrek in the ?zmir region, and often purchased along with a piece of tulum peyniri (goat's milk cheese) and a hard-boiled egg, following an old Sephardic culinary custom.

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  • 1. Arşipel Restaurant

    $$

    Summer and winter, the dining room at the Kırkınca Houses Boutique Hotel is the best in town, overlooking the lovely landscape and serving delicious and authentic dishes prepared with oil produced from olives harvested in the garden. You can accompany your meal with wines produced in Şirince, and the sound of mellow live music on Friday and Saturday nights. Among the delicacies on the menu are creamy eggplant soup; şevketi bostanı, a root vegetable cooked with tender pieces of lamb; and delicious homemade pasta, erişte, served in a light cream and almond sauce.

    Şirince Köyü, Sirince, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-898–3133

    Known For

    • Lovely atmosphere
    • Local wines
    • Erişte (homemade pasta, served in a light cream and almond sauce)
  • 2. Ejder Restaurant

    $$

    This popular spot overlooking the Selçuk aqueduct is run by a friendly family team—husband, wife, and son—and offers a menu that includes such traditional vegetarian dishes as exemplary stuffed peppers and fried eggplant. It may sometimes take a while for the generous, juicy lamb and chicken kebabs to cook in the small hearth, but it's worth the wait.

    Cengiz Topel Cad. 9/E, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–3296

    Known For

    • Good veggie options
    • Pirzola (lamb chops)
    • Kuzu beyti (lamb rolls)
  • 3. Kalamare

    $$

    Down a quiet, pretty alley just a two-minute stroll from the waterfront, the white, candlelit tables at this seafood restaurant quickly fill with hungry locals. Accompany a heaping plate of fried local calamari (probably the most generous in town) with a tasting plate of up to four vegetable meze with toasted bread, and, if you're still hungry, order grilled fish and (more) rakı.

    Sanat Okulu Cad. 9, Bodrum, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-316–7076

    Known For

    • Candlelit atmosphere
    • Calamari every way, including stuffed with shrimp and cheese
    • Köpoğlu (garlicky eggplant meze)
  • 4. Agora Restaurant

    $$

    This large Turkish restaurant near the Ephesus Museum has an equally large menu, focusing on grilled meats, but also including pide, meze, salads, breakfast, and some specialty desserts. There are also some daily specials, such as roasted lamb on Fridays. Beer, wine, and rakı are available to accompany the well-prepared dishes.

    Agora Çarşısı 2, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–3053

    Known For

    • Varied menu
    • Check the daily specials
    • çökertme kebabı (meatballs on top of shoestring fries with yogurt and tomato sauce)
  • 5. Asian Kitchen & Cafe

    $$

    Travelers craving a change from the usual Turkish fare will be happy to find this establishment right smack in the middle of Pammukale. Catering to the growing number of Asian tourists in the area, it turns out surprisingly authentic versions of mostly Chinese, Taiwanese, and Korean specialties, including noodle dishes, soups, and stir-fries. Service can be slow and there’s not much in the way of decor. No alcohol.

    Cumhuriyet Meydanı 14/A, Pamukkale, Denizli, 20190, Turkey
    544-388--5666

    Known For

    • Hot pot (winter only)
    • Korean mixed-rice dish bibimbap
    • Taiwanese beef noodle soup
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  • 6. Asma Yaprağı

    $$

    This small and romantic garden restaurant is a highlight of Alaçatı’s dining scene, with chef Ayşe Nur Mıhçı famed for her fresh renditions of Aegean cooking using seasonal, local produce, especially the region’s wealth of wild herbs and greens. There’s no menu, but the staff will help you select from the options on display in the kitchen. Good local wines are available to accompany your meal. Reservations highly recommended.

    1005 Sok. 50, Alaçati, Izmir, 35930, Turkey
    232-716–0178

    Known For

    • Roasted pumpkin meze
    • Slow-roasted lamb
    • Good local wines
  • 7. Avrasya Lokantası

    $$

    Hearty traditional Turkish soups, stews, and meat and vegetable dishes are arrayed buffet-style at this cheery lokanta, which is always bustling at lunchtime. At the top of Alaçatı village near the minibus stop, it offers a reasonably priced and reliable alternative to the increasingly expensive fare found farther into town.

    Uğur Mumcu Cad. 22, Alaçati, Izmir, Turkey
    232-716–9144

    Known For

    • Meatballs with pureed potato
    • Mücver (zucchini fritters) with homemade yogurt
    • Lamb and golden thistle stew
  • 8. Ayasoluk Restaurant

    $$

    The Ayasoluk Hotel’s restaurant offers meals in a pleasant dining room and romantic courtyard, both with a bucolic sunset view, and features local and organic ingredients for a light, fresh take on Turkish favorites. It's one of the more intimate and sophisticated dining options in town.

    1051 Sokak 12, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–3336

    Known For

    • Homemade soups
    • Fish baked in parchment paper
    • Good wine list
  • 9. Babushka Alaçatı

    $$

    Chef Olga Irez's intimate restaurant takes a farm-to-table approach to the food traditions of her and her husband’s Russian and Turkish grandmothers. There are many vegetarian options among the always-fresh meze and appetizer selections, which change throughout the year to spotlight seasonal produce.

    3000 Sok. 38, Alaçati, Izmir, Turkey
    232-716–0070

    Known For

    • Pelmeni (Russian dumplings)
    • Spicy beef liver
    • Stuffed squash blossoms

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed most weekdays in winter. No lunch
  • 10. Bitez Köftecisi

    $$

    A pleasantly old-fashioned place popular with locals, this cozy, casual restaurant a short walk back from the beachfront offers a range of Turkish-style grilled meats, plus a smaller selection of appetizers and meze. Portions are small, but quality high. Alcohol is served.

    Şah Cad. 31, Bitez, Mugla, 48470, Turkey

    Known For

    • Köfte (meatballs)
    • Pirzola (lamb chops)
    • Ciğer (liver)
  • 11. Can Döner

    $$

    Not far from the clock tower at the entrance of Kemeraltı, this small local favorite has served traditional İskender kebabı (and only İskender kebabı) from the city of Bursa since 1981. The spit-roasted meat is sliced thin and topped with melted butter and tomato sauce. A glass of homemade ayran (salted yogurt drink) is the traditional accompaniment to the meal. Alcohol is not served. Come for lunch or a very early dinner, as they're only open until the meat runs out, usually around 6:30 pm.

    Milli Kütüphane Cad. 6/B, Izmir, Izmir, 35250, Turkey
    232-484–1313

    Known For

    • Ayran (a salted yogurt drink) to accompany the kebabs
    • No alcohol
    • Closes early (by 6:30 or sometimes sooner)

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No dinner
  • 12. Dost Pide & Pizza

    $$

    Stopping here for pide (Turkish-style pizza or calzones, piled with a variety of ingredients that can include cheese, spinach, meat, or egg) is a highlight of a trip to Ilıca and a great choice for a quick lunch, or even breakfast, though on the pricey side compared to similar fare elsewhere. The menu also includes kebabs, soup, pizza, and traditional Turkish desserts.

    5152 Sok. 27, Ilica, Izmir, 35930, Turkey
    232-723–2059

    Known For

    • Kıymalı (mincemeat) pide
    • Good breakfast stop
    • Open 24 hours in peak season
  • 13. Dükkan

    $$

    This small and colorful eatery serving Greek and Turkish fare is an increasingly rare find in ever more chic Bodrum. Choose from meze like smoked fish or roasted eggplant with tahini sauce, followed by fresh fish, ending perhaps with a cream-topped candied mandarin for dessert. Reservations are recommended.

    Adliye Sok. 5, Bodrum, Mugla, Turkey
    530-341–6620

    Known For

    • Grilled squid
    • Fried calamari
    • Homey vibe

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Sun. No lunch
  • 14. Eski Ev

    $$

    The Ottoman motifs seem a bit touristy, but the place is done up nicely, in the peaceful, open-air courtyard of an old house, shaded by a towering grapefruit tree. Eski Ev ("old house" in Turkish) serves a wide selection of Turkish meze (appetizers) and main dishes, including some nice choices for vegetarians. The restaurant's specialty is a delicious concoction of lamb, vegetables, and rice, served on a copper dish with its own tiny flame beneath.

    1005 Sok. 1/A, Selçuk, Izmir, 35920, Turkey
    232-892–9357

    Known For

    • The Old House special (lamb with vegetables and rice)
    • Good vegetarian options
    • Pleasant atmosphere
  • 15. Gunbatimi

    $$

    By early evening, the white tables spread across the green lawn in front of Gunbatimi are full of customers coming to witness the inspiration for the restaurant's name, "the sunset." To accompany the visual spectacle, the owner and his culinary team cook up the classics of Aegean seafood dishes, with particular pride displayed in the grilled octopus.

    396 Sk., off Ugur Mumcu Cad., Dikili, Izmir, Turkey
    0232-671–7570

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards, Closed in winter. No lunch
  • 16. Kavaklı Köfteci

    $$

    Köfte (Turkish-style meatballs) are the mainstay of this popular, no-frills eatery, and you can enjoy them as a sandwich or with a side of piyaz (navy bean salad, with or without onions), homemade bread, and ayran (salted yogurt drink). The only other dish on the menu is çöp şiş, small pieces of skewered grilled lamb. No alcohol served.

    Merkez Çarşı İçi, Yalikavak, Mugla, 48400, Turkey
    252-385–4748

    Known For

    • Good köfte
    • Simple menu
    • Casual vibe
  • 17. Kayaş Restaurant & Bar

    $$

    This cheery traveler favorite just off Pamukkale’s main square serves up better-than-average grilled meats, güveç (casseroles), and other traditional Turkish dishes (plus international staples like omelets and pasta) on an outdoor patio under a thick canopy of grapevines. Portions are on the small side, but nicely presented. 

    Atatürk Cad. 3, Pamukkale, Denizli, 20280, Turkey
    534-561–1080

    Known For

    • Mixed grill
    • Karnıyarık (stuffed eggplant)
    • Full bar including a good selection of bottled beer
  • 18. Marvista Restaurant

    $$

    This cheery, casual bistro-style restaurant on the ground floor of the Hotel Ilayda is popular with visitors for its broad international menu, ranging from pasta dishes to fajitas to traditional Turkish grills. Prices are reasonable, portions hearty, and alcohol served. 

    Atatürk Bul. 46, Kusadasi, Aydin, 09400, Turkey
    256-614–3807

    Known For

    • Burgers and steaks
    • Upbeat atmosphere
    • Outdoor seating overlooks the waterfront road
  • 19. Mezgit Restaurant

    $$

    Laid-back but still pleasantly lively, this fish restaurant across from the marina has indoor-outdoor dining and less of a touristy vibe than those around the cruise ship port. Meze, hot starters, and fresh whole fish are all well prepared and the service is efficient.

    Atatürk Bul. 104, Kusadasi, Aydin, Turkey
    256-618–2808

    Known For

    • Roasted octopus
    • Stuffed calamari
    • Fried red mullet
  • 20. Sedir Mantı & Börek Evi

    $$

    Simple but delicious home-cooked dishes are served on a secluded patio at this friendly little restaurant just off Şirince's bustling main street. There are plenty of vegetarian options, and a cozy dining room with a fireplace for winter meals.

    4 Sok. 2, Sirince, Izmir, Turkey
    535-480–9873

    Known For

    • Mantı (Turkish "ravioli" with garlicky yogurt)
    • Kiremitte köfte (meatballs baked in tomato sauce)
    • Assorted börek (savory pastries)

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