Fodor's Expert Review La Castela

Traditional taverns with tin-top bars, vermouth on tap, and no-nonsense waiters are a dying breed in Madrid, but this one, just a couple of blocks from the Parque del Buen Retiro, has stood the test of time. It's always busy with locals clamoring over plates of sautéed wild mushrooms, anchovies served with a pipirrana (cucumber and tomato salad), and clams in white wine. Stop in for a quick bite at the bar—they'll serve you a free tapa with every drink—or enjoy heartier choices, such as the chickpea and king prawn stew, in the homey dining room at the back.