The center of this noble town contains the only preserved medieval theater in Europe. It stands beside the ancient Plaza Mayor, where 85 Roman columns form two colonnades supporting green-frame 16th-century buildings. Enjoy casual tapas (such as pickled baby eggplant, an Almagro specialty known the country over) and rustic local wines in the unfussy bars lining the square. Near the plaza are granite mansions emblazoned with the heraldic shields of their former owners and a splendid parador in a restored 17th-century convent.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.
More