Fodor's Expert Review Disfrutar

Three former head chefs from the now-closed "World's Best Restaurant" elBulli have combined their considerable talents to create this roller-coaster ride of culinary fun. Sun streams into the gorgeous interior through skylights, spotlighting tasting menus of dazzling inventiveness and good taste. Bowls are swirled to reveal beetroot meringues emerging from sesame-seed "earth" (the seeds are made to look like soil), and jellied truffle-and-egg tempura hit the bull's-eye of pure pleasure. Desserts are otherworldly. Disfrutar (Spanish for "to enjoy") has set the local food scene ablaze since its opening.