Fodor's Expert Review Primero Primera

The Perez family converted their apartment building on a leafy side street in the quiet, upscale, residential neighborhood of Tres Torres and opened it as an exquisitely designed, homey boutique hotel. (Primero primera refers to the flat on the first floor, where grandma still lives.) Nuria Perez and her designer-architect colleagues were responsible for the makeover, keeping essential features like the spiral central stairwell, and creating a retro-modern ambience that invites you to sink into one of the leather armchairs and relax. Rooms have twin- or king-size beds and ample wardrobes; bathrooms have black-slate floors, stretch-out tubs, and Gilchrist & Soames toiletries. Ask for No. 42, with a balcony and view of the street, or A-6 on the top floor, with access to the rooftop terrace. A spacious meeting room and an outdoor terrace with steps up to a small, kidney-shape wading pool—perfect for kids—add to the appeal.