St. Petersburg Restaurants

More than two decades have passed since the fall of the Soviet Union and with it the days when dining choices in St. Petersburg, or any Russian city for that matter, were limited to traditional, often uninspired, but always inexpensive Russian-style eateries. In fact, dining is among the great pleasures in the city of Peter the Great these days. Yes, you can dine like a tsar, and in just about any other fashion and on any kind of cuisine you prefer. Top chefs have taken over the dining rooms of some of the best hotels—including the Grand Hotel Europe, the Kempinski, and the W—where they serve top-notch food in beautiful settings. You'll also find a growing number of ethnic choices, and even vegetarians, often at a loss to find a meat-free meal in Russian, have some options, too.

Traditionalists need not worry, however. Homey and jovial budget eateries serving quick, substantial, and good meals for less than 250 rubles have mushroomed around the city. Stands selling Russian blini, the hearty Russian cousin of the French crepe, are everywhere, and they make a great pit stop.

Here are a few things to keep in mind. Few restaurants in St. Petersburg have no-smoking sections; in fact, some places have cigarettes listed on the menu. But attitudes are changing and you'll sometimes be offered a seat in a no-smoking section. The dining sections of St. Petersburg Times and St. Petersburg in Your Pocket are worth checking out, for both the restaurant reviews and the ads for tempting business lunch deals, which are typically priced between 300R and 600R.

It's not necessary to plan ahead if you want to land a table in a nice establishment on weekdays, but it's generally a good idea to reserve ahead for weekend dining. Ask your hotel or tour guide for help making a reservation. Most restaurants stop serving food around 11 pm or midnight, although more and more 24-hour cafés are opening.

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  • 21. Gastronom

    $$$ | City Center

    This favorite for relaxed weekend lunches is especially popular in warm weather, when outdoor tables overlook the Field of Mars. The main dining room is done in French farmhouse style, with chunky wooden tables and soft cushions; walls lined with dusty wine bottles; and a long table along one wall groaning under mounds of cheese, freshly baked bread, and fruit. Salads come in generous sizes and can easily replace a main course; Italian and Russian dishes predominate.

    1/7 nab. Reki Moiki, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191186, Russia
    812-314--3849

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 22. Grand Cru Wine Bar

    $$$$ | Admiralteisky

    Wine lovers can choose from a huge list of French and Italian vintages, then select a bottle from the adjacent shop. Or, they can settle into the sleek and fashionably eclectic surroundings for an inventive and flavorful meal in which duck with rosemary and honey might be accompanied by black rice with a cappuccino of Mediterranean herbs and an extremely elegant take on borscht.

    52 nab. Reki Fontanki, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191002, Russia
    812-426--9595

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 23. Il Grappolo

    $$$ | City Center

    One of the city's best Italian restaurants serves deliciously fresh food, including a Caprese salad with buffalo mozzarella. Everything—from the fresh arugula salad with shrimp to the mushroom risotto, duck confit, and a stellar tiramisu—stands out. Downstairs at the wine bar, Probka, you can order wines by the glass from the well-chosen list and have an authentic Caesar salad.

    5 ul. Belinskogo, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191014, Russia
    812-273--4904

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 24. Jean-Jacques

    $$ | Petrograd Side

    Mirrored walls, red and mahogany furnishings, and tables topped with paper provide an authentic bistro ambience, a perfect setting for a classic French meal of onion soup, steak and bordelaise sauce, and crème brûlée. Fine wines are available by the glass, and attentive servers will help you with your choice. Seating is limited to only 25 people, so it's advisable to come early for dinner or take advantage of the excellent lunch, served from noon to 4 pm.

    2/54 ul. Gatchinskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 197198, Russia
    812-232--9981

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 25. Kilikia

    $ | City Center

    A haven for local Armenians, and named after an ancient region in modern-day Turkey, this restaurant serves sizzling beef stew and a tempting variety of expertly cooked kebabs in sprawling, dimly lit rooms. The seemingly endless menu may confuse the uninitiated, but the staff is ready to help. A bargain-priced, three-course business lunch is popular with locals and budget-minded travelers.

    40 nab. Kanala Griboyedova, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191023, Russia
    812-327--2208

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
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  • 26. LeChaim

    $$ | Admiralteisky

    The kosher cuisine, served in the spacious basement of St. Petersburg's Great Choral Synagogue, is as popular with a nonreligious crowd as it is with dietary adherents. Such favorites as chicken schnitzel and trout fillet wrapped in grape leaves are served in generous portions and at very reasonable prices. Keep in mind that the restaurant can be difficult to find, since the doorway is discreetly marked, and is often booked for weddings and other events that take place in the synagogue, so call ahead.

    2 Lermontovsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190121, Russia
    812-572--5616

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards, Closed Sat.
  • 27. Macaroni

    $$$ | Vladimirskaya

    Settle into one of the plush booths to enjoy simple Italian fare in friendly and comfortable surroundings. The pastas and pizzas are authentically delicious, as are the more ambitious meat and fish choices. A 15 percent discount for weekday dining between noon and 5 pm makes a meal here, reasonably priced at any time, a real bargain.

    23 ul. Rubinshteina, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191002, Russia
    812-572--2849
  • 28. Marcelli's

    $$ | Vladimirskaya

    An unpretentious dining room decorated with Italian knickknacks and bare wooden tables is a good choice for an inexpensive lunch or post-theater dinner of pasta and salad (it's open until midnight). For an Italian shopping experience, stop at the retail counter to stock up on imported cheeses, cold meats, and coffees.

    15 ul. Vosstaniya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191036, Russia
    812-986--9111

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 29. Mops

    $$$ | Vladimirskaya

    The city's most authentic Thai cuisine is served in modern black-and-white surroundings with a glass-enclosed terrace on the street that's great for people watching. You can follow up a meal of spring rolls and Bangkok duck with another authentically Thai experience—the building houses a well-known massage spa of the same name.

    12 ul. Rubinshteina, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191025, Russia
    812-961--9221

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 30. New Island

    $$$ | Vasilievsky Island

    In summer this dinner cruise has stunning views as it sails along the Neva River, past the rows of colorful palaces lining the banks. The New Island sets sail promptly at 2, 6, 8, and 10:30 pm for 90-minute cruises. Inside, all is simple but refined, as is the menu. The Kamchatka crab salad makes an excellent starter, and is nicely followed with the veal Orloff with baked potatoes and dill or the fried fillet of trout with almonds. The wine list is extensive but pricey.

    15 nab. Universitetskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 199034, Russia
    812-320--2120

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 31. Palkin

    $$$$ | City Center

    A legendary restaurant of the same name was established on this spot in 1785. The formal and elegant interior evokes those bygone days, though the present incarnation has become a bit worn around the edges since its Yeltsin-era heyday. You'll still feast like an aristocrat, on such dishes as chicken with morel sauce, venison with pine-nut marmalade, fillet of turbot served with pistachio nuts and curry sauce, and a salad of smoked salmon with fresh oysters and beluga caviar. It's worth a visit for the window seats alone, which look out onto bustling Nevsky prospekt.

    47 Nevsky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191025, Russia
    812-703--5371

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 32. Pervoye, Vtoroye i Kompot

    $ | Vladimirskaya

    A glass of kompot, an infusion of stewed fruit, is served as a welcome drink at this funky café where two dining rooms are furnished with vintage lamps, surrealist paintings, and bizarre curio items. The menu focuses on light fare—hummus, falafels, curries, and sandwiches—and breakfast is available at any hour. On weekdays between noon and 4 pm, you get two meals for the price of one.

    10 ul. Zhukovskogo, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191014, Russia
    812-719--6542

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 33. Russian Vodka Room No.1

    $$$$ | Admiralteisky

    Discreet and genteel, this spacious one-room venue could come straight out of one of Chekhov's stories and is the perfect place to try various vodkas and home-brewed liqueurs. Alcoholic sampling requires sustenance, and a menu offers many traditional choices, with an emphasis on fish dishes. A starter group platter features four types of smoked fish—including omul (cisco, a kind of whitefish) from Lake Baikal and sig, a whitefish from Russia's far east. A memorable main course is fried pike-perch from Lake Ladoga, served with mashed potatoes.

    4 ul. Konnogvardeisky bulvar, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-570--6420

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 34. Russkaya Rybalka

    $$ | Kirov Islands

    The gimmick at "Russian Fishing" is that you catch your own dinner. It's set in a charming wooden house overlooking a lake full of trout and beluga sturgeon. Tackle, bait, and expert advice are provided, and your catch is prepared before you on the grill. The place even operates during winter when the lake is frozen solid—the restaurant breaks up the ice so sections are still fishable. There are several other options on the menu as well, including a baked eggplant dish that is memorable.

    11 Yuzhnaya doroga, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 197110, Russia
    812-633--0200

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards
  • 35. Sadko

    $$$ | Admiralteisky

    Ruby red chandeliers and modern interpretations of Russian folkloric motifs provide a perfect prelude to a night at the nearby Marrinsky Theatre. The menu, however, is as down to earth as the surroundings are fanciful, focusing on such popular Russian classics as borscht, breaded veal cutlets, and beef Stroganoff. The wine list is particularly well chosen.

    2 ul. Glinka, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-903--2373
  • 36. Staraya Tamozhnya

    $$$$ | Vasilievsky Island

    What was for many years the best restaurant in St. Petersburg has been surpassed in recent years, but with open brickwork walls, ornate decor, and immaculately presented tables, the "Old Customs House" still puts on a good show for a memorable night on the town. Meals are exquisitely prepared, with such choices as duck breast, accompanied by pan-fried foie gras with white beans and black truffle, and black-cod fillet on a cushion of saffron and fennel that show just how sophisticated Russian cuisine can be. The wine list is excellent, and the service is friendly as well as top-notch.

    1 per. Tamozhenny, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 199034, Russia
    812-327--8980

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential
  • 37. Stolle

    $ | Admiralteisky

    This casual eatery combines the best of the old and new: the fashionable surroundings are comfortable, clean, and spacious, while the kitchen turns out an old favorite—fresh-baked traditional pies. Choose from sweet or savory fillings that make the most of seasonal fruit, beef, salmon, cabbage, mushrooms, and rabbit. The salmon is a dream, and the apricot is a suitable follow-up, but all the choices are extremely good. If you have a hard time finding a seat at this popular spot, try the branch just down the street at number 33.

    11 Nevskiy Prospect, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 191186, Russia
    812-314--7021

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No credit cards
  • 38. Tandoor

    $$ | City Center

    Waiters dressed in traditional costumes and soft embroidered shoes move soundlessly in this comfortable and quiet little place across the street from St. Isaac's Cathedral. Reliable Indian classics such as those served here were hard to find in St. Petersburg before the downfall of the USSR. A generous business lunch is an especially good deal and includes a vegetarian option.

    10 Admiralteysky pr., St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-312--3886

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 39. Tbiliso

    $$ | Petrograd Side

    A lot of thought was put into creating this busy and authentic Georgian restaurant, which evokes the atmosphere of old Tbilisi, the capital of Russia's southern neighbor. There may be political tensions between the nations these days, but Russians' love affair with Georgian cuisine, from lobio (bean salad) and grilled meat and fish shashlyks (shish kebabs) to lavash (flat bread) and khatchapuri (cheese-filled bread), remains passionate. Tbiliso satisfies this appetite and then some, with servers in national costume and a Georgian choir to serenade diners. If you visit only one Georgian restaurant in St. Petersburg, make it this one.

    10 ul. Sytninskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 197101, Russia
    812-232--9391

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted
  • 40. Teplo

    $$ | Admiralteisky

    The name means "warmth" in Russian and this popular spot does indeed make guests feel warm all over, with a country house atmosphere (a fire blazes and the main dining room is lined with bookshelves) and menu laden with cozy, expertly made classics, such as marinated beets, salted herring, meat pies, and borscht. The signature dish is a warm salad of juicy chicken livers and crispy strips of bacon surrounded by salad leaves, cherry tomatoes, and herby croutons. The three-course-plus-a-drink business lunch is an excellent value, and accordingly popular.

    45 ul. Bolshaya Morskaya, St. Petersburg, St.-Petersburg, 190000, Russia
    812-570--1974

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Credit cards accepted, Reservations essential

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