Fodor's Expert Review Varvary
Editor's Note: This location is no longer in operation.
Anatoly Komm, the only Russian chef to receive a Michelin star (it was at a restaurant in Geneva), has returned home to present his innovative creations in baroque and theatrical surroundings, where dabs of Russian folk patterns show up amid the gray velvet armchairs and crimson trim. The intricate cuisine fuses "molecular gastronomy" techniques with down-home ingredients, all of which come from within Russia. All the foams and jellies may leave you bewildered at times, but the two-bite borscht and the "salade Olivier ice cream" are truly inspired. Nothing is à la carte here but there are many prix-fixe options.
