These 185,000 acres of rolling hills comprise one of the most remote and least developed areas of the country. The park is home to a growing population of Iberian wolves, which you're not likely to see except on a guided nature tour. In the villages that dot the park, some ancient traditions survive. Rio de Onor, right on the Spanish border, has traditional dwellings where livestock inhabit the ground floor and humans live in the story above, to be warmed by the animals' body heat in the region's bitterly cold winters. As well as the information on the park on the official website for Portugal's protected areas, there's an Interpretation Center (closed Mon.) in Vinhais, 33 km (20 miles) west of Bragança, with displays on the park and its wildlife, a library, and a café. In addition, local association Montesinho Vivo ( montesinhovivo.pt) offers tips (currently in Portuguese only) on how to visit and stay in the area. For maps and full details of hiking trails, stop by the tourist office in Bragança.