Fodor's Expert Review Chefe Cordeiro
This slick but informal taberna—headed up by José Cordeiro, one of Portugal's best-known chefs—is the only gourmet option among the esplanade restaurants on Terreiro do Paço, as locals call Praça do Comércio. The stress is on the finest ingredients in top-notch traditional petiscos (snacks) and entrées, prepared in an open kitchen that dominates one of the two dining rooms. The pastéis de bacalhau (fried cod cakes) are good, and even the squeamish will be won over by the tender, well-seasoned orelheira de porco fumada e cozida (smoked, stewed pig's ear). Signature dishes include flavorful arroz malandro (rice stews): with beans or tomatoes as a side dish, or with lobster, or monkfish and prawns, as a main. Diners should note that the restaurant closes early by local standards (10:30 pm).
Praça do Comércio 20/23
Lisbon, Lisbon 1100-148, Portugal