Lapa is a quiet residential neighborhood with several chic eateries and one of Lisbon's most renowned casas de fado, Senhor Vinho. The Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga is at the foot of the district and is likely Portugal's most important art museum. Nearby is Madragoa, a small grid of streets where Lisbon's fishermen once lived and where you can still get a cheap fish dinner. Dominating the hilltop above Lapa is the Basílica de Estrela church, across from a pretty garden that takes its name.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.More