Fodor's Expert Review Pousada de Lisboa

The Portuguese word pousada ('rest stop') may suggest a small and cheerful guest house, but this grand lodging is far from modest.

Owned by the Portuguese luxury hotel chain Pestana, Pousada de Lisboa has perhaps the best location of any hotel in the city. Harboring one corner of the grand Praça do Comércio-the vast plaza flanked by the River Tagus at one end and the Rua Augusta Arch at the other-this former noble residence and seat of Government has been impressively transformed into this upscale downtown lodging.

With a heated indoor pool, private sun-lounging deck, spa and standout restaurants, the hotel has plush rooms with impressive views, and is at the epicenter of all Lisbon's downtown happenings, from sunset strolls along the waterfront to fine dining, late night bar-hopping and taking in the impressive architecture of the Pombaline downtown.

Pousada de Lisboa joined the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group in 2015, and members sometimes receive a free upgrade at check-in

room

Decorated and furnished in classic-contemporary style, the rooms have soft, neutral tones, soft linens and large windows with views over the plaza and the river, or over the historic streets of Lisbon's handsome Baixa. Some have small balconies. This is a listed building, and rooms aren't huge, but they are nicely appointed and are well-soundproofed (something of a necessity in this busy part of the city). Flat screen TV, free in-room Wi-Fi, air conditioning, mini-bar, and safe are found in all rooms.

YOU SHOULD KNOW Room size and layout varies due to the age of the building, but Classic Rooms tend to be on the small side

bathroom

The bathrooms at Pousada da Lisboa are a mix of classic style and modern trends, with lots of marble and glass. Some bathrooms have tubs and overhead showers, others have shower cubicles. In common with many modern hotels in Lisbon, some bathrooms are separated from the sleeping quarters by glass walls, but these can be curtained off to spare guests' blushes. Amenities are from the retro-chic Portuguese brand Castelbel.

lobby

Vaulted ceilings, artworks, and artifacts relating to Portugal's grand Age of the Discoveries, stained glass and ceiling paintings make the common areas at Pousada de Lisboa feel like stepping into a museum, while the plush carpets and dark wood reception desk add to the sense of opulence.

pool

Pousada de Lisboa has a large, heated indoor pool for year-round use.

spa

The hotel's Magic Spa offers guests a chance to rewind after a day tramping up the steep hills of Lisbon, with an exclusive menu of face and body treatments offered in a cool, fragrant space adjoining the pool.

gym

The fitness center at Pousada de Lisboa is a well-maintained facility, with plenty of modern work out equipment and TV screens tuned to music channels.

dining

As the name suggests, the hotel's formal dining restaurant RIB Beef & Wine has a meat-heavy menu (there are some vegetarian options), but this is not your average steak joint. The jaw-droppingly ornate dining room is decorated with paintings and sculptures on loan from the Lisbon Museum, while the terrace has views onto the square and the river. The meat on offer here is top-notch, with recommended cuts including the Rib eye steak and the Chateaubriand. To wash it down, there's an absolutely enormous array of wines to choose from. Breakfasts are a suitably lavish affair, with eggs cooked to order along with a vast array of hot and cold dishes.

For a one-of-a-kind experience, enjoy a glass of champagne at the Esplanada do RIB, the hotel's restaurant. Its ambiance is cosmopolitan and trendy. With an original menu featuring the Tomahawk ribeye steak (a high-quality cut aged for 28 days, affording it a pronounced but not overwhelming flavour), the Chateaubriand (selected premium tenderloin with an elegant and sophisticated flavour) and the RIB Eye (lightly marbled, succulent and profoundly flavourful)

The terrace has great people-watching opportunities, but it's on a busy main road. The opulent interior is a more relaxing setting for dinner.

drinking

The esplanade at RIB Beef & Wine is open for drinks and appetizers and is a particularly good choice to catch sunset over the river. Guests can also relax in the plump armchairs and sofas to enjoy a wine or well-mixed cocktail from the hotel bar.