Enclosed within a star-shape perimeter of massive stone walls, moats, and earthen bulwarks lies the quiet little town of Almeida. Less than 10 km (6 miles) from the Spanish border, it has been the scene of much fighting over the centuries. This is a place for walking, clambering along walls, and giving your imagination free rein—perhaps to conjure up ghosts of battles past. The drive from Castelo Rodrigo to Almeida is winding, mountainous, and dramatic.

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