34 Best Sights in The Baltic Coast and Pomerania, Poland

Behind the Fontanna Neptuna on Długi Targ, one of the more significant of the grand houses was constructed over a period from the 15th through the 17th centuries and is now a museum. The mansion was named for mythical English King Arthur, who otherwise has no affiliation with the place. This and the other stately mansions on the Długi Targ are reminders of the traders and aristocrats who once resided in this posh district. The court's elegant interior houses a huge, 40-foot-high Renaissance tiled stove, possibly the world's largest, a mid-16th-century masterpiece by George Stelzener. The mansion's collection also includes Renaissance furnishings, paintings, and holy figures as well as hunting trophies and models of tall ships suspended from the ceiling. The building was the meeting place of the Gdańsk city nobles.

One of the city's most distinctive landmarks is the elaborately gilded, 17th-century fountain at the western end of Długi Targ. The fountain itself is perhaps the best-known symbol of Gdańsk, emphasizing its bond with the sea. It was sculpted by Peter Husen and Johann Rogge. The general conceptual design was developed by Abraham van den Blocke. The magnificent surrounding fencing was added in 1634. Between 1757 and 1761 Johann Karl Stender remade the fountain chalice and plinth in the rococo style and added a whole array of sea creatures.

The district of Oliwa, northwest of the Old Town, is worth visiting if only for its magnificent cathedral complex. Originally part of a Cistercian monastery, the church was erected during the 13th century. Like most other structures in Poland, it has been rebuilt many times, resulting in a hodgepodge of styles from Gothic to Renaissance to rococo. The cathedral houses a museum as well as one of the most impressive rococo organs you're ever likely to hear—and see. It has more than 6,000 pipes, and when a special mechanism is activated, wooden angels ring bells and a wooden star climbs up a wooden sky. Demonstrations of the organ and a brief narrated church history are given almost hourly on weekdays in summer (May through September), less frequently on weekends and the rest of the year.

The largest brick church in the world—and the largest church of any kind in Poland—St. Mary's is on the north side of ulica Piwna. The sanctuary can accommodate 25,000 people. This enormous, breathtaking 14th-century church underwent major restoration after World War II. Although it originally held 22 altars, 15 of them have been relocated to museums in Gdańsk and Warsaw. The highlight of a visit is the climb up the hundreds of steps to the top of the church tower. The church also contains a 500-year-old, 25-foot-high astronomical clock that has only recently been restored to working order after years of neglect. It keeps track of solar and lunar progressions, and it displays the signs of the zodiac. One of the loveliest features inside is a group of baroque statues of angels playing musical instruments.

Three huge and somber crosses perpetually draped with flowers stand outside the gates of the former Lenin Shipyards, which gave birth to the Solidarity movement. The crosses outside the entrance to the shipyards are the Pomnik Poległych Stoczniowców (Monument to Fallen Shipyard Workers), where striking workers were killed by the military police and soldiers in December 1970. On the monument, you will find fragments of Psalm 29 and a poem by Czesław Miłosz: "You who wronged a simple man." There are also plaques that commemorate the struggle, and a quotation by Pope John Paul II inspired by his visit to the monument in 1987: "The Grace of God could not have created anything better; in this place, silence is a scream." The monument stands close to the Shipyard's historic Gate No. 2 and the BPH room, where the Gdańsk Agreements were signed, starting the avalanche of political and economic transition in Poland. Somewhat ironically, it was the same transition—and a series of controversial decisions—that led to the shipyard's bankruptcy and downsizing. Now a private company, the shipyard is a fraction of what it used to be; however, there are some good ideas for revitalizing the land and the buildings. Part of the postshipyard area, referred to as "the Young City," is designated for housing, services, shopping, and entertainment functions. Already standing is the impressive European Solidarity Centre, telling the story of the Solidarity movement and Polish transformation.

This defensive tower was previously a part of the medieval city fortifications that were otherwise destroyed in the 18th century. The responsibility of its defense belonged to the guild of tailors, who realized a difficult task by providing seven coats for Princess Anne. In honor of that deed, it was called "Baszta Siedmiu Płaszczy" (a tower of seven coats).

The magnificent gate was built shortly after Szczecin fell under the rule of Prussia, and its purpose was basically to show off Prussia's power. The gate, designed by Gerhard Cornelius von Wallrave and built between 1725 and 1728, shows a shield with the Prussian eagle, the chain of the Black Eagle Order, and a crown. Next to the gate, on the same square, a lone mast belonging to the steamship Kapitan Maciejewicz, from 1929, is a favorite photo opportunity.

Known previously as "Berlin gate" (Berliner Tor), this structure dates back to the years 1724 to 1740, when Szczecin was defended by a complicated system of fortifications. It is decorated with the personifications of Glory, and they are blowing their trumpets towards coats of arms of Friedrich Wilhelm I, king of Prussia, who purchased Szczecin from the Swedes in 1719.

The historic entrance to the old town of Gdańsk is marked by this magnificent Renaissance gate, which marks the beginning of the so-called "Royal Route," along which the king passed through the city on his annual visit. The gate is adorned with the flags of Poland, Gdańsk, and the Prussian kingdom. Its builder, Hans Kramer of Dresden, erected it as a link in the chain of modern fortifications put up to frame the western city borders between 1574 and 1576. The brick gate was renovated and decorated in 1588 by Flemish sculptor Willem van den Blocke, whose decorations you can still see today.

The eastern entrance to the medieval city of Gdańsk is at the water's edge. Construction, supervised by Regnier of Amsterdam and Hans Kramer of Dresden, lasted from 1568 to 1571. This 16th-century gate also doubled as a royal residence. Unfortunately, the name no longer fits: the gate is now painted brown.

Just behind the Brama Wyżynna, the Golden Gate was the second through which the king passed on the Royal Route. This structure dates from 1614, and combines characteristics of both the Italian and Dutch Renaissance. It was built to the design of Abraham van den Blocke. The stone figures (by Pieter Ringering) along the parapet (on the Wały Jagiellońskie facade) represent allegories of the city's citizens' virtues: prudence, justice, piety, and concord. On the Długa street facade there are allegories of peace, freedom, fortune, and fame—the pursuits of Gdańsk city over the centuries. Next to the Golden Gate squats the house of the St George's Brotherhood, erected by Glotau between 1487 and 1494 in the late-Gothic style.

The Loitz family was a mighty banking family, who traditionally sympathized with Polish kings, sometimes with unfortunate results. They never recovered the borrowed sums for a Royal Navy project of King Zygmunt August, due to his sudden death. Nowadays, an art school occupies their town house, which was built in the style of the late Gothic.

This colourful sculpture was created in 1975 by one of the most famous Polish sculptors, Władysław Hasior. It was originally planned to sit near the castle, but it caught fire just as it was supposed to be inaugurated. Years later, forgotten and falling apart in the park, the artwork was saved by fans from Wrocław, who collected and "arrested" the broken parts and agreed to give them back on the condition that the town of Szczecin would take better care of the masterpiece.

The third branch of the National Museum in Szczecin occupies an 18th-century palace called the Pod Głowami (literally, "Under the Heads"). Unfortunately, the interior shows nothing of its original splendor, instead, it offers somewhat cold design from the 1960s. White walls, geometrical iron crates, and smooth, ornament-free solid woodwork (softened by 40-some years of patina) create a stylish, though forlorn, space to enjoy modern art. Although the gallery owns an exquisite collection of modern Polish paintings and sculptures, the collection is not on permanent display. Instead, different temporary exhibitions take place.

The cathedral's first incarnation was built on this spot in the late 12th century and was later replaced by a Gothic, three-aisle church built between the 13th and 14th centuries. In 1456, the 390-foot tower and the vaults collapsed. The present tower dates back to late 15th century and holds one of the biggest Polish bells, the baroque "Saint Jacob." Each of the church's three aisles is of equal height, so light fills the vast, homogenous space. Partly rebuilt after World War II, the modest, white-walled interior includes a 14th-century triptych from Ciećmierz and a 15th-century Pietà from Lubniewice. The biggest stained-glass window in Pomerania is in the eastern wall. Since 2008, organ music festivals have been held here annually in summer.

This 19th-century Gothic church hides remains of one from the 15th century—including its beautiful wall frescos—and a beautiful 18th-century pipe organ. The church once belonged to the Franciscan order; when they lost their holdings as a result of the Reformation in 1527, their buildings were turned into a hospital and a shelter for the poor. They retained that function until 1957, when the buildings were returned to the Catholic church. They are now home to the Pallotine order.

The parish church of Szczecin was built between 1425 and 1440. Built of brick, with a simple white interior, it was remodeled at the end of the 17th century and turned into a late-baroque structure. On the ceiling, a fresco depicts the Holy Trinity. The church is situated next to a busy road, so it's filled with traffic noise and has, to be honest, seen better days. Outside, notice the Pomeranian tracery (brick ornamental decoration) and terra-cotta late-Gothic portraits of town burghers on the facade between the windows.

This church, a few blocks north of the shipyards, is a prime example of the fundamental link in the Polish consciousness between Catholicism and political dissent. After the Communist government declared martial law in 1981 in an attempt to force Solidarity to disband, the union's members began meeting here secretly during celebrations of mass. A statue of Pope John Paul II can be seen in front of the church.

The former parish church in Gdańsk's Old Town is supposedly the oldest church in the city: its construction was begun in the 1220s; the tower was constructed in the 1480s; the carillon of 37 bells was added in 1634. The 17th-century astronomer Jan Hevelius is buried in the presbytery of the church, below which lies what's left of the town's oldest Christian cemetery (which dates from the 10th century). One of the most fascinating objects in the interior is an octagonal baptistery of 1585, the work of Mateusz Gletger of Braniewo—a wooden structure with a rich wood mosaic and sculpted decoration. Since 2011, the church has also hosted the world's oldest pulsar clock, calculating the time from a signal source outside the Earth. Throughout history, the church survived many calamities, including a fire in 2006, after which the roof had to be replaced; luckily, the interior survived.

In 1230, the Teutonic Knights arrived on the banks of the Vistula River and settled here, aiming to establish their own state on these conquered Prussian lands. The castle passed into Polish hands after the second Toruń Treaty in 1466 concluded the 13-year war between the Poles and the Order of Teutonic Knights. For the next three centuries, Malbork served as the royal residence for Polish kings during their annual visit to Pomerania. The castle was half-destroyed during World War II, after which the building underwent a major renovation. Two-hour guided tours offer the best way to see the castle; tours are available in English, and there's an English-language guidebook in the gift shop. You can easily see the castle on a day-trip from Gdańsk (several local companies offer organized tours), but there is a hotel on the castle grounds if you want to spend the night.

Gdańsk's small archaeological museum displays Slavic tribal artifacts, including jewelry, pottery, boats, and bones.

Connected to the Modern Art Museum, administratively and physically, is the Muzeum Etnograficzne, in the former Abbots' Granary. The museum display has fine examples of local crafts from the 19th century and also has an interesting display of amber folk jewelry. It has a separate entrance from the Modern Art Museum and a separate admission fee, but the hours and other contact information are the same for both museums, and they are both under the management of Gdańsk National Museum.

Housed in a baroque palace—and in an annex across the street—the branch of the National Museum in Szczecin is devoted mainly to art: older paintings, sculpture, and antiques (most 13th- to 16th-century Pomeranian), and some other Polish pieces from the 17th century. The building itself is a palace of the former regional parliament, Sejm Stanów Pomorskich, built between 1726 and 1727 and designed by Gerard Cornelius von Walrawe. The highlights of the museum include an 18th-century oak cross from the cathedral in Kamień Pomorski, richly sculpted 13th-century columns from the Cistertian cloister in Kołbacz, a portrait of Prince Filip I by Lucas Cranach the Younger from 1541, and a set of 16th- and 17th-century gold jewelry and robes.

The former Franciscan monastery, just south of the old walls of the Main Town, exhibits 14th- to 20th-century art and ethnographic collections. Hans Memling's triptych Last Judgment is the jewel of the collection and is alone a good reason to visit.

Two museums can be found in a beautiful park surrounding the cathedral in Oliwa in the former Abbots' Palace. The Modern Art Museum has a large collection of works by Polish artists from the interwar period onward. The collection includes paintings, sculptures, ceramics, and textiles. The Ethnographic Museum next door has the same hours and contact information but a separate admission fee.

Although Gdańsk's original town hall was completely destroyed during World War II, a careful reconstruction of the exterior and interior now re-creates the glory of Gdańsk's medieval past. During the summer season the tower is accessible to visitors and well worth climbing for the view. Inside, the Muzeum Historii Miasta Gdańska (Gdańsk Historical Museum) covers more than five centuries of Gdańsk's history in exhibits that include paintings, sculptures, and weapons.

The Old Town Hall dates back to the turn of 15th century and was rebuilt in the 18th century. Since 1975, the building has hosted the Museum of History of Town, a division of the National Museum In addition to a permanent exhibition on the history of Szczecin, you can also admire a treasure found in the Podzamcze (Lower Castle) in 1999, a vast collection of 14th- and 15th-century coins and about 300 pieces of burghers' silver as well as some gold jewelry.