The Valnerina (the valley of the River Nera, to the southeast of Spoleto) is the most beautiful of central Italy's many well-kept secrets. The twisting roads that serve the rugged landscape are poor, but the drive is well worth the effort for its forgotten medieval villages and dramatic mountain scenery.
'WHAT ARE YOU DOING HERE?' ON THE GROUND AT A GREEK REFUGEE CAMP
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.
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