Fodor's Expert Review La Pergoletta

On an old town street named for its beautiful towers, this small, simple restaurant is in one such tower itself and is a place where Pisans come to celebrate. Three intimate rooms, one particularly charming with a pergola, are usually filled with locals eating dishes laced with imagination (curry and ginger often appear on the menu). The menu changes frequently to reflect what's good and in season; the risottino estivo (summer risotto) is red rice from the Camargue anointed with creamy stracchino (cow's milk cheese). Emma Forte and her daughter Daniela Petraglio seamlessly run the show.