Fodor's Expert Review Cantina del' Polpo

The Ballarini family runs three restaurants in Sestri Levante, and this cozy former cantina with wood paneling, a fireplace, local maritime memorabilia, and red-checkered tablecloths serves some of the best dishes in town. Using the bounty of the two bays that frame the village, they create inventive tasting menus and standout mains, which, in addition to expertly seasoned fish, include homemade pastas, like the gnocchi. The wine list is primarily Ligurian.