Fodor's Expert Review The Mills Inn

If you wince at tour-bus crowds, consider heading to the Irish-speaking village of Ballyvourney, where this historic coaching inn beside the rapid-flowing River Sullane has old castle ruins, a stable yard, and gardens on its grounds. The bar, established in 1755, is popular with Irish-speaking locals and has top-class traditional Irish music from Thursday to Sunday night. Rooms are well insulated from bar and traffic noise, and come in various sizes with four-poster mahogany beds. The restaurant and bar serve generous portions of local meat and seafood—it's quieter in the restaurant, with a fancier menu, but you may need to reserve. Typical daily specials include Dingle Bay scampi or twice-cooked pork belly on braised red cabbage.