When to Go

When is it best—and worst—to pay a call on the Irish capital? The summer offers a real lift, as the natives spill out of the pubs into the slew of sidewalk cafés and open-air restaurants. The week around St. Patrick's Day (March 17) is, naturally, a nonstop festival of parades, cultural happenings, and "hooleys" (long nights of partying) throughout the city. Christmas in Dublin seems to last a month, and the city's old-style illuminations match the genteel, warm mood of the locals. The newly launched New Year's Festival Dublin (NYF) is an organized three days of music, spectacle, and craic to see in the first day of the new year. The downside quickly follows, however, for January and February are damp hangover months, but there are plenty of hotel and restaurant bargains to be found. A warm sweater is a must year-round, as even summer nights can occasionally get chilly. Dublin gets its share of rain (though a lot less than other parts of Ireland), so an umbrella is a good investment—and best to make it a strong one, as the winds show no mercy to cheaper models.

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