The Southside

The River Liffey provides useful orientation, flowing as it does through the direct middle of Dublin. If you ask a native Dubliner for directions—from under an umbrella, as it will probably be raining in the approved Irish manner—he or she will most likely reply in terms of "up" or "down," meaning up and away from the river, or down and toward it. Until recently, Dublin's center of gravity was O'Connell Bridge, a diplomatic landmark in that it avoided locating the center either north or south of the river—strong local loyalties still prevailed among "Northsiders" and "Southsiders," and neither group would ever accept that the city's center lay elsewhere than on their own side. The 20th century, however, saw diplomacy fall by the wayside—Dublin's heart now beats loudest southward across the Liffey, due in part to a large-scale refurbishment and pedestrianization of Grafton Street, which made this already upscale shopping address the main street on which to shop, stop, and be seen. At the top of Grafton Street is the city's most famous and recognizable landmark, Trinity College; at the foot of it is Dublin's most popular strolling retreat, St. Stephen's Green, a 22-acre landscaped park with flowers, lakes, bridges, and Dubliners enjoying their leisure time. Finally, south of the canal, there's the uber-cool Ranelagh neighborhood, where a new, must-see restaurant or bar seems to open every week.