When to Go
As in much of Greece, late April and May provide optimum conditions for exploration—hotels, restaurants, and sites have begun to extend their hours but the hordes of travelers have not yet arrived. September and October are also excellent times because the weather is warm but not oppressive, the sea is at its balmiest, and the throngs of people have gone home. In summer, morning and early-evening activity will avoid the worst of the heat, which can be a formidable obstacle. Mosquitoes are out in force around seaside villages, which are often surrounded by fields and groves, so bring repellent and, more important, seek out a hotel room with air-conditioning. Remember that snow renders many of the mountain regions hard to access in winter.