Fodor's Expert Review Chateau Zevgoli

If you stay in Chora, try to settle in to Despina Kitini's fairy-tale pension, in a comfortable Venetian house that offers distinctive guest rooms and a lovingly appointed salon filled with dark antique furniture, gilded mirrors, old family photographs, and locally woven curtains and tablecloths. One of the nicest bedrooms has a private bougainvillea-covered courtyard and pillows handmade by Despina's great-grandmother; the honeymoon suite has a canopy bed, a spacious balcony, and a view of the Portara. Despina also has roomy studios in Chora's Old Town, including several on the Kastro—stay a day and you'll stay a month. Breakfast may be included in the room price depending on the time of year.