On Kefalos Bay, the little beach community of Kamari is pleasant and less frantic than the island's other seaside resorts though still plastered with tourist shops. On a summit above is the lovely Old Town of Kefalos, a more pleasant place to wander for its views and quintessential Greekness. Close offshore is a little rock formation holding a chapel to St. Nicholas. Opposite are the ruins of a magnificent 5th-century Christian basilica. For those who wish to escape the crowds, head to the peninsula south of here. Among the rocky bluffs and clusters of Byzantine churches, are shores that feel torn from another world entirely—windswept, remote, and crowd-free.

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