Driving the German Wine Road
Due to its sunny skies, warm weather, and fertile fields, many Germans consider the Pfalz their version of Tuscany. In addition to vineyards, the mild climate fosters fig, lemon, and chestnut trees.
The best time for a drive is early spring, when the route is awash with pink and white almond blossoms, or early fall, when you can sample sweet young wines. The Deutsche Weinstrasse begins in Schweigen-Rechtenbach and runs alongside the Bundesstrassen (highways) B-38 and B-271. Yellow signs depicting a cluster of grapes guide visitors along a picturesque path of villages and vineyards north, to the end of the route at the "House of the German Wine Road" in Bockenheim. The entire road is just a little more than 50 miles and can be driven in a few hours. However, it can easily turn into a two-day drive (or longer!) if you stop to sample the local food and wines. Get an early start and allow yourself to get lost in the charming villages along the way, leaving time for a hike (or a bike ride) among the beautiful vines.
Drinking and Driving
Germany has strict laws against driving (and biking) under the influence, so if you’re planning to take advantage of the numerous Weinprobe (wine samples) offered along the route, make sure you have a designated driver. Alternatively, just let the vintner know what you like, and he can help you pick a bottle to enjoy when you reach your final destination.
The entire route is scenic, but if you’re short on time, the stretch between Gleiszellen and Bad Dürkheim is particularly rich with castles, vineyards, and vistas. If you opt to start at Schweigen-Rechtenbach on the French border, the southernmost point of the route, you can begin by snapping a photo in front of the Deutsches Weintor (German Wine Gate). Otherwise, pick up the route in Gleiszellen, where you should stop to savor a glass of the hard-to-find Muskateller wine, with its distinctly sweet aroma. Weinstube Wissing has a homey atmosphere and offers Muskateller in red, yellow, and rosé varieties.
Depending on the time of year, your trip may coincide with a local wine or produce festival—as you drive, keep your eyes peeled for signs advertising "Weinfest." Summer is the best time for festivals, but the seasons are celebrated with roadside stands selling local produce all year round. When you arrive in Edenkoben, stretch your legs at the Pompeian-style palace Schloss Villa Ludwigshöhe, then continue uphill via the Rietburgbahn chairlift to the vantage point at the Rietburg Castle Ruins. During the summer months, early evening is a lovely time for the journey, and the chairlift is even open until midnight when the castle festival is on, the pathway lit by Chinese lanterns. If you plan to split your drive into two days, the neighboring village of St. Martin is approximately halfway through the journey, making it an ideal place to overnight. Spend the next morning exploring the winding streets of this charming village on foot.
Continue north, stopping for lunch in the picturesque town of Deidesheim, home to three of the region's most famous wineries and some of its very best restaurants. Drive leisurely through the vineyards of Forst, stop off at the imposing ruins of Burgruine Hardenburg (Hardenburg Fortress), and end your day with a visit to the world’s biggest wine barrel in Bad Dürkheim.
Quick Bites
Consulat des Weines. Oenophiles won't want to miss this Vinothek in the charming village of St. Martin. It offers more than 80 varieties of wine from its vineyards in St. Martin and nearby Edenkoben (cash only). The sheer variety makes it easy to overindulge—good thing there's a hotel and restaurant on-site. There's a second location, also on Maikammerer Strasse near the St. Martiner Castell hotel (closed Sundays). Maikammerer Str. 44, St. Martin, Rheinland-Pfalz, 67487. 06323/8040; www.consulat-des-weins.de. No credit cards. Closed Sun. after noon.
Wochenmarkt. If you're in Bad Dürkheim on a Wednesday or Saturday morning, head to the farmers' market for flowers, bread, wine, meats, cheeses, and vinegars. Am Obermarkt, Bad Dürkheim, Rheinland-Pfalz, 67098. 06323/8040; www.wochenmarkt-duerkheim.de. Wed. and Sat. 7 am–1 pm.
