Fodor's Expert Review La Merenda

The back-to-bistro boom climaxed here when Dominique Le Stanc retired his crown at the Negresco to take over this tiny, unpretentious landmark of Provençal cuisine. For decades he has worked in a miniature open kitchen creating ultimate versions of stuffed sardines, tagliatelle with pistou, slow-simmered daubes (beef stews), and the quintessential stockfish (the local lutefisk)—but don’t worry, pizza is an option, too. There are two seatings at both lunch and dinner. You'll have to stop by in person or message on Facebook or Instagram to reserve entry to the inner sanctum as there's no phone—and note that credit cards are not accepted either.