The most touristy of all the hill towns in the Haut Var backcountry (all of which are called Pays de Fayence), Fayence is easiest to reach from the coast and often filled with busloads of day-trippers. Nonetheless, it has a pretty Old Town at the top, magnificent wraparound views from its 18th-century church down to the Massif des Maures and the Estérel, and a plethora of artisans' galleries and boutiques. The Four du Mitan museum, where you'll see the original village oven built in 1522, is free and open daily. It's also home to Europe's best gliding club (you can eat at its restaurant) and Pickleball France-Pays-de-Fayence, which has some English-speaking members. Stop by on a Saturday morning near the municipal outdoor sports club and you can pay a drop-in fee and rent a paddle to get your fix.
When there was every reason in the world to stay away and see the ruins, one woman traveled to Greece to get to work.More